Winter 2016, Volume 16 Number 4

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Winter 2016, Volume 16 Number 4

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

MEET THE AUTHOR
Food and Imagination: An Interview with Monique Truong | Daniela Fargione

SOAS FOOD STUDIES CENTRE DISTINGUISHED LECTURE
“Let Them Eat Stuffed Peppers”: An Argument of Images on the Role of Food in Understanding Neoliberal Austerity in Greece | David Sutton

RESEARCH BRIEFS
Student Brief: Culinary Zionism | Jacob Bessen

Expo Milano: Capitalist Dreams and Eating Machines | Rebecca Feinberg

RESEARCH ESSAYS
More than Food Porn: Twitter, Transparency, and Food Systems | Michael Pennell

The Politics of Food Anti-Politics | Charlotte Biltekoff

Fostering Multiple Goals in Farm to School | Alexandra Lakind, Lihlani Skipper, and Alfonso Morales

Live and Active Cultures: Gender, Ethnicity, and “Greek” Yogurt in America | Perin Gurel

Gourmet Samurai: Changing Food Gender Norms in Japanese TV | Nancy K. Stalker

VISUAL ESSAYS
Earning Their Keep: Bison Ranching Fights the Battle for Conservation | Kris Heitkamp

The Story of Kashk | Kareh Moraba

CREATIVE REFLECTIONS
In Search of Lard Time | George Fogarasi

Naturally Delectable | Anthony Greenwood

Stuffed Cabbage and History Lessons | Elena Lelia Radulescu

REVIEWS
The Ghana Cookbook
By Fran Osseo-Asare and Barbara Baëta, Reviewed by Naa Baako Ako-Adjei

The Oxford Companion to Food
By Alan Davidson and Edited by Tom Jaine (revised and updated edition), Reviewed by Ken Albala

Chop Suey, USA: The Story of Chinese Food in America
By Yong Chen, Reviewed by Stephanie H Chan

Three Squares: The Invention of the American Meal
By Abigail Carroll, Reviewed by Lauren Renée Moore

Bourbon Empire: The Past and Future of America’s Whiskey
By Reid Mitenbuler, Reviewed by Jen Rose Smith

BOOKS AND FILMS RECEIVED

Top Photo:
FIGURE 3: The Other Human” Social Kitchen scenes of collective cooking.
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE OTHER HUMAN © 2016

Summer 2016, Volume 16, Number 2

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Summer 2016, Volume 16, Number 2

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

RESEARCH BRIEFS
Seeding Controversy: Did Israel Invent the Cherry Tomato? | Anna Wexler

For Oompa-Loompas, Orange Was the New Black | Layla Eplett

RESEARCH ESSAYS
Cultivating Community: Black Agrarianism in Cleveland, Ohio | Janet Fiskio, Md Rumi Shammin, and Vel Scott

The Mikoyan Mini-Hamburger, or How the Socialist Realist Novel about the Soviet Meat Industry Was Created | Ronald D LeBlanc

Siopao and Power: The Place of Pork Buns in Manila’s Chinese History | Adrian De Leon

Materializing Memory, Mood, and Agency: The Emotional Geographies of the Modern Kitchen | Angela Meah

Wicked Nutrition: The Controversial Greening of Official Dietary Guidance | Susanne Freidberg

VISUAL ESSAY
Bashir & Bashir | Demet Güzey

CREATIVE REFLECTIONS
My Dead Father’s Raspberry Patch, My Dead Mother’s Piecrust: Understanding Memory as Sense | Lisa Heldke

A Rule of Thumb for Eating with Your Hands | Turna Ray

You Say “Barberyes” and I Say “Barberries” | Sandra Clark Jergensen

REVIEW ESSAYS
Hungering for Heritage: Nostalgia and the Rise of Critical Southern Food Studies | Jennifer Jensen Wallach

Cooking in Modernity’s Crucible: Global Locals, Native Creoles, and Caribbean Food | J Brent Crosson

Response from the Author | Candice Goucher

REVIEWS
Culinary Herbs & Spices of the World
By Ben-Erik van Wyk, Reviewed by Susan Strasser

The Culinary Imagination: From Myth to Modernity
By Sandra M Gilbert, Reviewed by Laura T Di Summa-Knoop

Food Activism: Agency, Democracy and Economy
Edited by Carole Counihan and Valeria Siniscalchi, Reviewed by Elisa Ascione

Cumin, Camels, and Caravans: A Spice Odyssey
By Gary Paul Nabhan, Reviewed by Natalie Rachel Morris

High Society Dinners: Dining in Tsarist Russia
By Yuri Lotman and Jelena Pogosjan, Reviewed by Alison K Smith

Food at Sea: Shipboard Cuisine from Ancient Times to Modern Times
By Simon Spalding, Reviewed by Abigail Carroll

BOOKS AND FILMS RECEIVED

Top Photo:
FIGURE 3: Vegetable Bouquet, Colfax Garden.
PHOTOGRAPH BY BRAD MASI © 2015

Spring 2016, Volume 16, Number 1

Spring 2016, Volume 16, Number 1

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

RESEARCH BRIEFS16_1_cover_large
Banking on Wild Relatives to Feed the World | Maywa Montenegro

RESCUING TASTE FROM THE NATION: OCEANS, BORDERS, AND CULINARY FLOWS
Introducing a Special Issue on Rescuing Taste from the Nation: Oceans, Borders, and Culinary Flows | Cecilia Leong-Salobir, Krishnendu Ray, and Jaclyn Rohe

Love in a Hot Climate: Foodscapes of Trade, Travel, War, and Intimacy | Jean Duruz

“Tastes Like Horse Piss”: Asian Encounters with European Beer | Jeffrey M. Pilcher

Feeding the Girmitiya: Food and Drink on Indentured Ships to the Sugar Colonies | Ashutosh Kumar

A Foreign Infusion: The Forgotten Legacy of Japanese Chadō on Modern Chinese Tea Arts | Lawrence Zhang

Culinary Work at the Crossroads in Istanbul | Zafer Yenal and Michael Kubiena

The Flow of Turtle Soup from the Caribbean via Europe to Canton, and Its Modern American Fate | May-bo Ching

Epilogue | Prasenjit Duara

CREATIVE REFLECTIONS
The Knife and the Sharpener | Andrew Simmons

Dated, Labeled, and Preserved | Nancy Sommers

REVIEWS
The Slaughter
Directed by Jason B Kohl, Reviewed by Alex Blanchette

Black, White, and Green: Farmers Markets, Race, and the Green Economy
By Alison Hope Alkon, Reviewed by Fa-Tai Shieh

The Donut: History, Recipes, and Lore, from Boston to Berlin
By Michael Krondl, Reviewed by Zenia Malmer

Eating Dangerously: Why the Government Can’t Keep Your Food Safe and How You Can
By Michael Booth and Jennifer Brown, Reviewed by Kai Chen

Writings on the Sober Life: The Art and Grace of Living Long
By Alvise Cornaro, Reviewed by India Aurora Mandelkern

Note-by-Note Cooking: The Future of Food
By Hervé This, Reviewed by Camila Loew

Word of Mouth: What We Talk About When We Talk About Food
By Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson, Reviewed by Cornelia Gerhardt

The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu
By Dan Jurafsky, Reviewed by Anna Wexler

JUST DESSERTS
Word Salad Challenge | Richard Wilk

BOOKS RECEIVED

Top Image:
FIGURE 4: The Tsingtao brewery, founded in 1903, with its iconic German architecture and a Chinese-English sign reading: Tsing Tao Beer can give you passion and happiness.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JEFFREY PILCHER © 2013

A taste of the next Gastronomica/SOAS Lecture: “Let Them Eat Stuffed Peppers” | David E. Sutton

Since 2014, Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies has partnered with University of London’s SOAS Food Studies Centre to co-sponsor a Distinguished Lecture Series for leading scholars, students, journalists, practitioners and members of the public to engage in critical conversations about the nature of food.

In advance of the next event on March 16th, UC Press author and distinguished anthropologist David E. Sutton gives readers a taste of his upcoming lecture, “‘Let Them Eat Stuffed Peppers’: An Argument of Images on the role of Food in Understanding Neoliberal Austerity in Greece.” 


 

9780520280557 “We all ate it together,” was the claim of Deputy Prime Minister Theodoros Pangalos as he tried to explain the origins of the so-called Greek Crisis to an angry crowd of protestors back in 2011. This phrasing struck me at the time because it extends eating together, or “commensality,” into the domain of national politics. Such food imagery fit with my long study on the island of Kalymnos in the Eastern Aegean, where I had been filming people’s everyday cooking practices and writing about the sensory engagement of ordinary Kalymnians with their ingredients and with their kitchen environments, some of the themes that I explore in my book Secrets from the Greek Kitchen: Cooking, Skill and Everyday Life on an Aegean Island. I use my video ethnography of everyday cooking practices to open up questions of memory and transmission of cooking knowledge, tool use and the body, and the potential changes brought about by the advent of cooking shows in Greece. But most importantly in Secrets I try and give a sense of the ways that Kalymnian food culture shapes people’s larger attitudes, and how through their everyday discussions they create a shared food-based worldview, a “gustemology.”

In my talk at SOAS, “Let Them Eat Stuffed Peppers,” I will be continuing this exploration through a look at some of the ways food discourses and practices have developed over the past six years of the Greek Crisis. From debates over the relationship of eating, debt and responsibility, to the growth of solidarity practices such as the “Social Kitchen” movement and the “Potato movement,” to attempts by ordinary Kalymnians to return to past cooking and eating practices as a way of surviving the crisis, food has shaped understandings and responses to new conditions throughout Greece. I look at how certain foods have been associated with protest because of their connection to notions of Greekness, or because of their obvious foreign derivation. I also examine how Kalymnians are dusting off old recipes, and old foraging practices, to cope with times in which sources of livelihood that had been taken for granted for a generation are suddenly under threat.

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Winter 2015, Volume 15, Number 4

Winter 2015, Volume 15, Number 4

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

MEET THE AUTHOR
Interview with Antonio Mattozzi, author of Inventing the Pizzeria: A History of Pizza Making in Naples | Zachary Nowak

RESEARCH BRIEFS
Waste, Incorporated | Chika Watanabe

The Hollow Knock and Other Sounds in Recipes | Anna Harris

Lowcountry Visions: Foodways and Race in Coastal South Carolina | Levi Van Sant

Sriracha: Lessons from the Legal Troubles of a Popular Hot Sauce | Ernesto Hernández-López

RESEARCH ESSAYS
Black Women’s Food Work as Critical Space | Kimberly D. Nettles-Barcelón, Gillian Clark, Courtney Thorsson, Jessica Kenyatta Walker, and Psyche Williams-Forson

“Mais vous savez, c’est un peu degoutant, ça”: Katherine Mansfield, Food, and the Indiscretions of the Great War | Tracy Bilsing

Galeterias: Serving Up Ítalo-Gaúcho Heritage in the South of Brazil | Gina Louise Hunter

Miracle Foods: Quinoa, Curative Metaphors, and the Depoliticization of Global Hunger Politics | Emma McDonell

CREATIVE REFLECTIONS
What Are You Eating?? | Fa-Tai Shieh

My Regimen of Meals in an Ayurveda Hospital | Kiranmayi Bhushi

Burned Wine and Bias | Daniel Press

REVIEWS
Appetites and Anxieties: Food, Film, and the Politics of Representation
By Cynthia Baron, Diane Carson, and Mark Bernard, Reviewed by Dennis Rothermel

Secrets from the Greek Kitchen: Cooking, Skills, and Everyday Life on an Aegean Island
By David E. Sutton, Reviewed by Katharina Graf

Books that Cook: The Making of a Literary Meal
Edited by Jennifer Cognard-Black and Melissa A. Goldthwaite, Reviewed by Megan Elias

Wood, Whiskey and Wine: A History of Barrels
By Henry H. Work, Reviewed by Bryce T. Bauer

Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage
Edited by Ronda L. Brulotte and Michael A. Di Giovine, Reviewed by Hélène B. Ducros

Writing in the Kitchen: Essays on Southern Literature and Foodways
Edited by David A. Davis and Tara Powell, Reviewed by Rebecca Sharpless

BOOKS RECEIVED

JUST DESSERTS

Scaling American Desserts | Shelly Errington

 

Top Images:

FIGURE 3: Chile peppers just before processing.
BEAUTIFULBY PAUL NARVAEZ ON FLICKR IS LICENSED UNDER CC BY 2.0.

FIGURE 4: Recently picked chile peppers.
THIS IS WHERE IT STARTS. A TRUCK BRINGING IN FRESHLY PICKED PEPPERSBY PAUL NARVAEZ ON

FLICKR IS LICENSED UNDER CC BY 2.0.