Summer 2021, Volume 21 Number 2

Editorial Letter | Paula J. Johnson

PORTRAYING THE “OTHER”
Eating (with) the Other: Race in American Food Television | Alison Hope Alkon and Rafi Grosglik

Anti-Black Racism in Food Advertising: Rogers’ Golden Syrup and the Imagery of White Supremacy in the Canadian West | Donica Belisle

Roundtable: The Great Italics Debate | The Gastronomica Editorial Collective

THE POLITICS OF SCALE
Chicken Politics: Agrifood Capitalism, Anxious Bodies, and the New Meanings of Chicken Meat in India | Michaël Bruckert

Household and Community Gardens Surge in the Philippines and Senegal during COVID-19: How Do Contrasting Models Speak to Different Visions for Future Food Systems? | Halie Kampman, Shun-Nan Chiang, and Salam Sawadogo

IMAGINATIONS AND IDENTITIES
Japanese Immigrants’ Pantry: Creating Eating Habits and Identities with Brazilian Ingredients | Eric Funabashi

The Bittersweet Potato in the Taiwanese Imagination | Shang-Huei Liang

Kitchenlessness, or The Migrant’s Affair with Food | Gema Charmaine Gonzales

PLACE, KNOWLEDGE, AND CUISINE
Digesting Peru in Brooklyn: The Flavor of Culinary Nationalism | Amy Cox Hall

Well Rooted: An Interview with Chef Rob Connoley | Daniel E. Bender

When the Rainbows Bring the Crawfish | V. Constanza Ocampo-Raeder

FEEDING THE SOUL
Before Everything Else | Anne Finger

Meditations on Entropy in the Kitchen | Sam Browett

Love, Math, and Brunello di Montalcino | Maria Finn

REVIEWS
Sugarcane and Rum: The Bittersweet History of Labor and Life on the Yucatán Peninsula, by John R. Gust and Jennifer P. Mathews
Reviewed by Valeria Mantilla Morales

Feeding the Crisis: Care and Abandonment in America’s Food Safety Net, by Maggie Dickinson
Reviewed by Merin Oleschuk

Women Who Dig: Farming, Feminism, and the Fight to Feed the World, by Trina Moyles, photographs by KJ Dakin
Reviewed by Claire Perttula

Food Fights: How History Matters to Contemporary Food Debates, edited by Charles C. Ludington and Matthew M. Booker
Reviewed by Signe Rousseau

Of Morsels and Marvels by Maryse Condé, edited by Charles C. Ludington and Matthew M. Booker, translated by Richard Philcox
Reviewed by Jacqueline Sarro

Once Was Water, a film by Christopher Beaver and Diana Fuller
Reviewed by Christy Spackman

Politics of Food, edited by Aaron Cezar and Dani Burrows
Reviewed by Pamela Tudge

Podcast Dispatches from Issue 21.2: Rob Connoley

For our fifth series of podcasts produced in collaboration with Meant to Be Eaten on Heritage Radio Network, we sit down (virtually) with authors who have contributed to our upcoming second issue of 2021, featuring articles on topics including commensality and creative collaboration, the politics of food systems, and race and representation.

For this inaugural episode of our Summer 2021 season, Editorial Collective member Daniel Bender welcomes chef Rob Connoley to discuss culinary collaboration and the roots of Ozark cuisine at his research-driven restaurant, Bulrush. Drawing on his experiences of shared knowledge creation with a range of local academic and culture partners, Connoley helps bring place-based storytelling to the forefront of culinary creation.

“Translating the Foods of the World” – A Call for Translations and Reflections on Translating the Worlds of Food

Gastronomica is pleased to introduce a new journal section with an exclusive focus on translation(s).

Even recipes written in English a century ago need contextualization (if not actual translation of now-obsolete words and/or ingredients) for readers today. Such a task is even more complicated when it comes to translating and adapting centuries-old works from other languages into English, be they cookbooks, primers to survive famine or to cook with rationed foods, guides to “healthy” eating, or similar texts. Despite these challenges, making such primary sources more accessible to students and researchers around the world is critical to stimulating and maintaining the growth of diverse voices in global food studies.  

We therefore invite submission of

  • translations into English of key culinary texts originally written in any language (though currently not available in English), and from all regions of the world. Translations can be of entire texts, or part(s) thereof with critical commentary;
  • essays reflecting on the challenges and opportunities relating to such translations (for example, the need to develop new vocabularies to express indigenous concepts; how translators engage with historical non-English texts like recipes that may assume more information and insight than they provide, and how culinary terminology has changed over time in tandem with other historical developments and shifts);
  • collaborative works featuring two or more scholars in dialogue about a specific translation, and/or (but not limited to) any of the issues outlined above.

We envision clustering translations and other accepted submissions thematically or geographically, with an introduction by one or more contributors, or other invited subject-matter experts.

Essays or translations (with introductions, reference lists, and notes) should be between 4000-8000 words, and should be submitted via the journal’s ScholarOne platform and should otherwise follow the submission guidelines for Scholarly Submissions.

We will be accepting submissions on a rolling basis, but manuscripts received by July 1 2021 and selected for peer review will be eligible for consideration for issue 21.4.

*Please note that we continue to invite all other forms of Scholarly and Food Phenomena submissions, including creative visual works such as photo essays (see art submission guidelines here), and pieces with a focus on food, justice and activism.

Spring 2021, Volume 21 Number 1

Editorial Letter | James Farrer

FOOD AND POWER
A Seat at the Table: The Western Dining Table as a Symbol of Power | Mackensie Griffin

“The Child Needs Milk and Milk Needs a Market”: The Politics of Nutrition in the Interwar Yishuv | Efrat Gilad

Ketchup as a Vegetable: Condiments and the Politics of School Lunch in Reagan’s America | Amy Bentley

CARE, WORK, AND MEMORY
Paqueteros and Paqueteras: Humanizing a Dehumanized Food System | Alyshia Gálvez

“If you haven’t shaoguo‘ed, you haven’t eaten”: Sensorial Landscapes of Belonging in the Kitchens of Rural China | Erin Thomason

Ruby’s Oyster Dressing, or Edible Nostalgia | Matthew Meduri

INTERROGATING THE CHEF
MasterChef: A Master Class in Fight, Flight, or Flambé? | Andrea Oskis

Around the World in 50 Restaurants: The Curious Irony of Hyperlocal Food | John Broadway

Spilling Ink and Cleaning Oil: The Intersection of Disaster and Design at La Marine | Rasmus R. Simonsen

COVID-19 DISPATCHES
Rumor, Chinese Diets, and COVID-19: Questions and Answers about Chinese Food and Eating Habits | Edited by Michelle T. King, Jia-Chen Fu, Miranda Brown, and Donny Santacaterina

Food Rescue Networks and the Food System | Leda Cooks

Feeding the City, Pandemic and Beyond: A Research Brief | Bryan Dale and Jayeeta Sharma

Lunch Interrupted! COVID-19 and Japan’s School Meals | Alexis Agliano Sanborn

“Muita Galinha, Pouco Ovo”: Food, COVID-19, and the Screen That Separates Us | Yara Ferreira Clüver

Bean Soup | Sayzie Koldys

Succulent | Alison Pearlman

Drinking to the Wolf in a Time of Pandemic (or War or Peace) | Gregory Emilio

REVIEWS
El Susto, a film by Karen Akins
Reviewed by Melissa Fuster

Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water by Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt
Reviewed by David Gentilcore

Black Food Geographies: Race, Self-Reliance and Food Access in Washington, D.C. by Ashanté M. Reese
Reviewed by Chhaya Kolavalli

De los plátanos de Oller a los Food Trucks: Comida, alimentación y cocina puertorriqueña en ensayos y recetas (From Oller’s Plantains to Food Trucks: Food, Eating, and Puerto Rican Cuisine in Essays and Recipes)
by Cruz Miguel Ortiz Cuadra, Reviewed by Mónica B. Ocasio Vega

When Banana Ruled, a film by Mathilde Damoisel
Reviewed by Alyssa Paredes

Stirrings: How Activist New Yorkers Ignited a Movement for Food Justice by Lana Dee Povitz
Reviewed by Chris Staysniak

The Chile Pepper in China: A Cultural Biography
by Brian R. Dott, Reviewed by Mark Swislocki

Podcast Dispatches from Issue 21.1: Amy Bentley

For our fourth series of podcasts produced in collaboration with Meant to Be Eaten on Heritage Radio Network, we sit down (virtually) with authors who have contributed to our upcoming first issue of 2021, which continues to feature COVID-19 Dispatches, but also original research articles around the themes of the relationship between food, power and politics, cultivating relationships, and sustaining memories.

For this last episode of our current season, historian Amy Bentley returns to the show to discuss the politics of food and nutrition with Editorial Collective member Melissa Fuster. She traces how the Reagan administration 40 years ago shifted (deliberately or inadvertently) the classification of ketchup from a condiment to a vegetable in an effort to overhaul national school lunch programs and cut government costs, a move that disproportionately affected the health of lower-income children.