Winter 2020, Volume 20 Number 4

Editorial Letter | Eric C. Rath

COVID-19 DISPATCHES
The Anxiety Kitchen, or Cooking for the People I Cannot Hug | Erica Berry

Looking for Relief | Caitlin McGill

Migration and Meal Boxes | Saanjh Gupta

The Food and COVID-19 NYC Archive: Mapping the Pandemic’s Effect on Food in Real Time | Amy Bentley and Stephanie Borkowsky

Decoding Miracle Food Cures for COVID-19 | Adrienne Bitar

“Do You Deliver?” Teaching a Culinary Arts Internship Course in Brooklyn as New York City Became the COVID-19 Epicenter | David Goldberg

Food and Art in Times of Crisis | Yael Raviv

Staff Meal in the Time of COVID-19 | Elizabeth Moroney

WORKING WITH INGREDIENTS
Salmon on the Table | John Gifford

Chicken for Everyone? A Cultural Political Economy of the Popularity of Chicken Meat in Bolivia | Sarah Kollnig

Viniculture, Social Justice, and the Environment | Scott Haas

TECHNOLOGY AND TASTE IN EAST ASIA
Technology and Taste in East Asia: An Introduction | Eric C. Rath

Taste as Governor: Soy Sauce in Late Chosŏn and Colonial Korea | Kyoungjin Bae

Numbing Aesthetics: Taste and Tempers of Peppercorn / Mountain Pepper / Sanshō | Lan A. Li

Technologies of Taste: Restaurant Guides, Diners, and Dining Halls in Interwar Tokyo | Eric C. Rath

EXCURSIONS
Food Desert or Food Oasis? Insights from Mexican Chicago | Coline Ferrant and Gary Alan Fine

Lucile’s Scrapbook: A Voyage around the World, 1937 | Daniel E. Bender

DOLCE
Respecting the Circle | Andrea Chase

Limoncello | Janine Certo

REVIEWS
Eat Joy: Stories & Comfort Food from 31 Celebrated Writers
edited by Natalie Eve Garrett, reviewed by Julieta Flores Jurado

Lost Feast: Culinary Extinction and the Future of Food
by Lenore Newman, reviewed by L. Sasha Gora

Leftovers: Eating, Drinking and Re-thinking with Case Studies from Post-war French Fiction
by Ruth Cruickshank, reviewed by Jennifer L. Holm

A Taste of Barcelona: The History of Catalan Cooking and Eating
by H. Rosi Song and Anna Riera, reviewed by Marta Manzanares Mileo

Food, Feminisms, Rhetorics
edited by Melissa A. Goldthwaite, reviewed by Jennifer O’Connor

The Food Sharing Revolution: How Start-Ups, Pop-Ups, and Co-Ops Are Changing the Way We Eat
by Michael S. Carolan, reviewed by Chloé Poitevin-DesRivières

Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai America
by Mark Padoongpatt, reviewed by Lok Siu

Podcast: COVID-19 Dispatches #7

For the seventh episode of our podcast series, produced in collaboration with “Meant to be Eaten” on Heritage Radio Network and dedicated to dispatches from the food world in reaction to the first months of the pandemic (the focus of recently published 20.3 issue), issue editor Bob Valgenti is joined by Dr. Saumya Gupta to discuss her essay, Lockdown Destitution: Delhi, March 2020, in which she describes the enormous challenges faced by millions of working class people in response to India’s national lockdown in March this year, many of whom were forced to flee their cities – places of informal employment (much of it related to selling food, but not deemed “essential” under lockdown) – and the precariousness of education in a country marked by a stark divide in access to the technologies required to accomplish remote learning.

For 30% off single-print issues of “Food in the Time of COVID-19”, use promo code GASTROAUG2020 at checkout.

Podcast: COVID-19 Dispatches #6

For the sixth episode of our podcast series, produced in collaboration with “Meant to be Eaten” on Heritage Radio Network and dedicated to dispatches from the food world in reaction to the first months of the pandemic (the focus of recently published 20.3 issue), issue editor Bob Valgenti is joined by Ashley Rose Young (author of “A COVID-19 Relief Kitchen Created by an Unexpected Advocate”) to discuss the importance of giving voice to and documenting often unseen and unheard – but indispensable – employees in the retail sector and hospitality industry, such as restaurant servers and grocery store employees, many of whom either lost jobs or had no choice but to risk their own health by continuing to work through the pandemic.

For 30% off single print-issues of “Food in the Time of COVID-19”, use promo code GASTROAUG2020 at checkout.

Web Exclusives #7: “Not Quarantine Food”

*For our recently published special issue, “Food in the Time of COVID-19”, we received more submissions than we could accommodate in the print version of the issue, so the following article forms part of a series of submissions which will be published as Web Exclusives which speak to the theme of Gastronomica 20.3.

By Tisha Marie Reichle-Aguilera

May 13, 2020: Los Angeles, California

On April 1, I texted Becca a photo of roasted pasilla chiles stuffed with quinoa, carrot, onion, and Queso Oaxaca.

Figure 1: Stuffed pasilla. Photograph by Tisha Marie Reichle-Aguilera © 2020

“That doesn’t look like quarantine food!” she responded. Maybe she thought I was foolin’.

“Why not?” I texted back.

Read more

Podcast: COVID-19 Dispatches #5

For the fifth episode of our podcast series, produced in collaboration with “Meant to be Eaten” on Heritage Radio Network and dedicated to dispatches from the food world in reaction to the first months of the pandemic (the focus of recently published 20.3 issue), our Managing Editor Jessica Carbone joins Daniel Bender to talk about her piece, “The Stockpile and the Letdown”, which documents her experience of having newly become a mother in the early days of the pandemic.

For 30% off single print-issues of “Food in the Time of COVID-19”, use promo code GASTROAUG2020 at checkout.