Summer 2015, Volume 15, Number 2

Summer 2015, Volume 15, Number 2

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

RESEARCH BRIEF
Red Meat: American Political Banquets and Partisan Culture | Gary Alan Fine and Christine Simonian Bean

RESEARCH ESSAYS
Hashiri, Sakari, Nagori: Toward Understanding the Psychology, Ideology, and Branding of Seasonality in Japanese Gastronomy | Scott Haas

Seeing and Tasting: The Evolution of Dessert in French Gastronomy | Maryann Tebben

Dinner in the Current Age: A Translation from Paris à table | J. Weintraub

“Dirty, Authentic . . . Delicious”: Yelp, Mexican Restaurants, and the Appetites of Philadelphia’s New Middle Class | Dylan Gottlieb

Food Hackers: Political and Metaphysical Gastronomes in the Hackerspaces | Denisa Kera, Zack Denfeld, and Cathrine Kramer

CRITICAL REFLECTIONS
Filipino: The Five-Step Plan | Corina Zappia

The Garden & Gun Club | Heather Richie

Table for One | James Nolan

Two Weeds Unwilded | Tom Celebrezze

The Dialectic of Bar-be-cue | Brett Busang

REVIEW ESSAY
China’s Incredible Food, from Ancient Times to 1950s Honolulu | Carolyn Phillips

REVIEWS
Food Transgressions: Making Sense of Contemporary Food Politics By Michael K. Goodman and Colin Sage, Reviewed by Emma McDonell

Inventing Baby Food By Any Bentley, Reviewed by Zofia Boni

Gentlemen Bootleggers: The True Story of Templeton Rye, Prohibition, and a Small Town in Cahoots By Bryce T. Bauer, Reviewed by Lisa Ossian

Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years that Changed our Culinary Consciousness By Joyce Goldstein, Reviewed by Erica J. Peters

No Experience Necessary: The Culinary Odyssey of Chef Norman Van Aken By Norman Van Aken, Reviewed by Stas Shectman

Consider the Fork: A History of How We Cook and Eat By Bee Wilson, Reviewed by Zenia Malmer

BOOKS RECEIVED

JUST DESSERTS
What Would Really Taste Good | Shelly Errington

 

Top Image:

FIGURE 3: Soaking in the private bath overlooking the forest surrounding The Kayotei offers one the privilege of reimagining Japan as an idyll; the realities of twenty-first-century life can seem remote. Photograph by jiro takeuchi © 2011

FIGURE 4: Japanese speak with reverence of living with nature. Tokyo, a city of over 30 million, may be the balance to that idealism. Photograph courtesy of Park Hyatt Tokyo.

Spring 2015, Volume 15, Number 1

Spring 2015, Volume 15, Number 1

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

2014 SOAS DISTINGUISHED LECTURE
Jerusalem on a Plate: Identity, Tradition, and Ownership | Yotam Ottolenghi

RESEARCH ESSAYS
Taste-Based Medicine | India Mandelkern

Pomegranate and the Mediation of Balance in Early Medicine | A.R. Ruis

Cultural Indigestion in Multicultural Australia: Fear of “Foreign” Foods in Australian Media | Lara Anderson and Heather Merle Benbow

How Not to Write About Africa: African Cuisines in Food Writing | Naa Baako Ako-Adjei

VISUAL ESSAY
Hard Labor in the Organic Potato Field | David Bacon

CREATIVE REFLECTIONS
The Thorniest Catch | John Grossmann

The Men Who Planted Trees: How the Truffle Saved Provence | Zachary Nowak

Madame Mushroom | Grace M. Cho

Picking Tomatoes at Midnight | Rebecca Dimyan

Shoot First, Make Breakfast Later | Jeff DeBellis

REVIEW ESSAY
Distinction and Dining | Gary Alan Fine

REVIEWS
San Francisco: A Food Biography By Erica J. Peters, Reviewed by Sarah Bakker Kellogg

Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking: A Memoir of Food and Longing By Anya von Bremzen, Reviewed by Anton Masterovoy

Rice Talks: Food and Community in a Vietnamese Town By Nir Avieli, Reviewed by Sarah G. Grant

The Darjeeling Distinction: Labor and Justice on Fair-Trade Tea Plantations in India By Sarah Besky, Reviewed by Alexandra Hatzakis

Semiotics of Drink and Drinking By Paul Manning, Reviewed by Sierra Burnett Clark

Food and the Self: Consumption, Production and Material Culture By Isabelle de Solier, Reviewed by Kelila Jaffe

Food, Farms, and Solidarity: French Farmers Challenge Industrial Agriculture and Genetically Modified Crops By Chaia Heller, Reviewed by Hélène B. Ducros

Food Co-ops in America: Communities, Consumption, and Economic Democracy By Anne Meis Knupfer, Reviewed by Alison Hope Alkon

The Industrial Diet: The Degradation of Food and the Struggle for Healthy Eating By Anthony Winson, Reviewed by Robert Paarlberg

BOOKS RECEIVED

Winter 2014, Volume 14, Number 4

Winter 2014, Volume 14, Number 4

From the Editor
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

SPECIAL ISSUE: THE REINVENTION OF FOOD: CONNECTIONS AND MEDIATIONS
Guest Editors Cristina Grasseni and Heather Paxson

Introducing a Special Issue on the Reinvention of Food: Connections and Mediations | Cristina Grasseni and Heather Paxson, with Jim Bingen, Amy J. Cohen, Susanne Freidberg, and Harry G. West

Authentic Anachronisms | Guntra A. Aistara

Eating Ursula | Brad Weiss

Defining Mexico’s Spirit | Sarah Bowen and Danny Hamrick

Re-localizing Milk and Cheese | Cristina Grasseni

Raw Milk, Raw Power: States of (Mis)Trust | Diana Mincyte

(Re)establishing the Normal | Yuson Jung

The GoodGuide to “Good” Coffee | Sarah Lyon

Resistance Is Fertile! | Anne Meneley

“Reinvention” Revisited | Peter Jackson

CRITICAL REFLECTIONS

Comfort Food | Mary Morris

Think I’ll Go Eat a Worm | Amy Wright

REVIEWS

Food and Social Media: You Are What You Tweet By Signe Rousseau, reviewed by Ryan S. Eanes

Waste Matters: New Perspectives on Food and Society Edited by David Evans, Hugh Campbell, and Anne Murcott, reviewed by David Boarder Giles

Eating Right in America: The Cultural Politics of Food and Health By Charlotte Biltekoff, reviewed by Helen Zoe Veit

The Kitchen as Laboratory: Reflections on the Science of Food and Cooking Edited by César Vega, Job Ubbnik, and Erik van der Linden, reviewed by Denisa Kera

The Philosophy of Food Edited by David M. Kaplan, reviewed by Kai Chen

Wines and Spirits, Foods of the World series By Alec Waugh, reviewed by Theresa Heacock

The Ethical Butcher: How Thoughtful Eating Can Change Your World By Berlin Reed, reviewed by Garrett M. Broad

The Italian American Table: Food, Family, and Community in New York City By Simone Cinotto, reviewed by Fabio Parasecoli

BOOKS RECEIVED

Fall 2014, Volume 14, Number 3

Fall 2014, Volume 14, Number 3

From the Editor
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

Nutritional Deficiencies: Dietary Advice and its Discontents
Introducing Critical Nutrition: A Special Issue on Dietary Advice and Its Discontents | Julie Guthman

Nutrition Troubles | Garrett Broad and Adele Hite

Interrogating Moral and Quantification Discourses in Nutritional Knowledge | Charlotte Biltekoff, Jessica Mudry, Aya H. Kimura, Hannah Landecker, and Julie Guthman

Other Ways of Knowing Food | Jessica Mudry, Jessica Hayes-Conroy, Nancy Chen, and Aya H. Kimura

Nutrition as a Project | Aya H. Kimura, Charlotte Biltekoff, Jessica Mudry, and Jessica Hayes-Conroy

Beyond the Sovereign Body | Julie Guthman, Garrett Broad, Kendra Klein, and Hannah Landecker

Doing Nutrition Differently | Jessica Hayes-Conroy, Adele Hite, Kendra Klein, Charlotte Biltekoff, and Aya H. Kimura

Epilogue: Anthropological Reflections on Critical Nutrition | Melissa L. Caldwell

Just Desserts
Basic Food Groups | Shelly Errington

Critical Reflections
Feeding the Foodoir: Hunger Artistry | Sandra M. Gilbert

Tall Tree and Sweet Flower: Julia Child in Sonoma | Leo Racicot

Creative Works
Aba Bayefsky at the Market | Edra Bayefsky

Diachronic Tomato | Stephen Massimilla

Canning | Jen Karetnick

Auditory Tune | Susan Comninos

The Pig River Carries with It Two Lines from Du Fu | Peter Marcus

Review Essay
A Compendium of Cheeses | Reviewed by Matthew J. Rippon
Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and Its Place in Western Civilization, by Paul S. Kindstedt
Pacific Northwest Cheese: A History, by Tami Parr

Reviews
Roman Restaurant Rhythms (film) Directed by Michael Herzfeld, reviewed by Rachel E. Black

The Slaw and the Slow Cooked: Culture and Barbecue in the Mid-South By James R. Veteto and Edward M. Maclin, reviewed by Teagan Lehrmann

Racial Indigestion: Eating Bodies in the th Century By Kyla Wazana Tompkins, reviewed by Melanie DuPuis

Global Appetites: American Power and the Literature of Food By Allison Carruth, reviewed by Carrie Tippen

Wine and Culture: Vineyard to Glass Edited by Rachel Black and Robert C. Ulin, reviewed by Zachary Nowak

Food: A Culinary History from Antiquity to the Present Edited by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Massimo Montanari, reviewed by Benjamin Aldes Wurgaft

Books Received

Summer 2014, Volume 14, Number 2

Summer 2014, Volume 14, Number 2

From the Editor
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

meet the author
Demanding Justice Behind the Kitchen Door: An Interview with Saru Jayaraman | Rebecca Feinberg

research essays
From Oysters to Olives at the Olympia Café: Greek Migrants and Australian Foodways | Toni Risson

Tasting Cultural Ecology: Foodscapes of Sustainability in the Mediterranean | Tracey Heatherington

Food Justice and the Challenge to Neoliberalism | Alison Hope Alkon

Taste – In an Age of Surfeit | Joanne Finkelstein

Culinary Pataphysics: Dining, Theatre, and the Historical Avant-Garde | Kevin Landis

critical reflections
The Unmaking of a Pig | Jessica Martell

Reflections on Sheep, Landscape, and Defining Locality | Isobel Grad

Eat to Kill | Cara Eisenpress

The Snack Market | Andrew Simmons

Lives of Pie | Stacy Adimando

Reimagining Food: Student Brief on Emerging Trends | Omar Lopez

creative works
Drinking His Wine | Jake Young

Names of Rice in Lao | Dave Snyder

Apples | Susan Comninos

Sunday Brunch | Peter Marcus

review essay
Kitchen Confidences | Reviewed by Gary Alan Fine
Back of the House, by Scott Haas
Behind the Kitchen Door, by Saru Jayaraman
Smart Casual, by Alison Pearlman

The Hands that Feed Us | Reviewed by Gloria Dawson
Fresh Fruit, Broken Bodies, by Seth Holmes
With These Hands, by Daniel Rothenberg

reviews
Hidden Hunger: Gender and the Politics of Smarter Foods by Aya Hirata Kimura, reviewed by Megan A. Carney

Eating to Excess: The Meaning of Gluttony and the Fat Body in the Ancient World by Susan E. Hill, reviewed by Lynne Gerber

Coffee Life in Japan by Merry Isaacs White, reviewed by Christopher Laurent

Brewed in Japan: The Evolution of the Japanese Beer Industry by Jeffrey W. Alexander, reviewed by Malcolm Purinton

For God, Country & Coca-Cola: The Definitive History of the Great American Soft Drink and the Company That Makes It by Mark Pendergrast, reviewed by Abigail Carroll

The Medieval Cookbook by Maggie Black, reviewed by Noah Charney

books received

just desserts
Weekend Yoga Retreat | Shelly Errington