Winter 2021, Volume 21 Number 4

Editorial Letter | Daniel E. Bender and Signe Rousseau


Uncontrolled Movements: An Overview of Abdicated Control in Florida’s Prison Food Spaces | John Daimoku Kingham

Challenging Power, Fighting for Food: A Gastronomica Call for Submissions on Food and Activism | Josée Johnston, Koby Song-Nichols, and Michael Chrobok

Adirondack Mountain Oysters | Luke McNally

Why I Am Mad about the Ducks | Amy B. Trubek


“Swiggy it!”: Food Delivery, Gastro Geographies, and the Shifting Meaning of the Local in Pandemic India | Tulasi Srinivas

Playing with Our Food | Cheryl Cheung

Classical Dishes, Taste, and Violence | Joel Rodrigues


Sake Journal (Goshu no nikki): Japan’s Oldest Guide to Brewing | Eric C. Rath

Toward “Translating the Foods of the World”: A Gastronomica Call for Submissions | Eric C. Rath

An Education of the Senses at the University of California, Berkeley: Alice Waters from Then to Now | Cari Borja

50 Years On, Did Alice Waters Change Food Forever? | The Gastronomica Editorial Collective

Tipping the Scales | David Szanto

Ferment | Monica Rico

Sacrament | Monica Rico

Food Activism and Language in a Slow Food Italy Restaurant Menu | Carole Counihan

What to Read Now: An Interview with Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt, authors of Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water | Jaclyn Rohel


Farmsteaders, a film by Shaena Mallett
reviewed by Alissa Boochever

The Uncertainty Mindset: Innovation Insights from the Frontiers of Food, by Vaughn Tan
reviewed by John Broadway

Tasting Difference: Food, Race, and Cultural Encounters in Early Modern Literature, by Gitanjali G. Shahani
reviewed by Sakshi Dogra

Right to Harm, a film by Matt Wechsler and Annie Speicher
reviewed by Allison Gray

Epistenology: Wine as Experience, by Nicola Perullo
reviewed by Anthony Palmiscno

Craft: An Argument, by Pete Brown
reviewed by Katie Schwind

FoodWISE: A Whole Systems Guide to Sustainable and Delicious Food Choices, by Gigi Berardi
reviewed by Sarra Talib

Fall 2021, Volume 21 Number 3

Editorial Letter | Krishnendu Ray

Beyond Bourdieu: What Tomatoes in Indian Recipes Tell Us about “Taste” | Sucharita Kanjilal

Tsukemono (Japanese pickles) and Their Traditional Vegetables | Aya H. Kimura

How to Stuff a Duck: Learning Artisan Foie Gras Production in France | Jean Lavigne

Risky but Raw: On (Not) Regulating One of the Most High-Risk Dishes in Japan | Benjamin Schrager

Deflated Michelin: An Exploration of the Changes in Values in the Culinary Profession and Industry | Raúl Matta and Padma Panchapakesan

Stirring the Pot: Calendario de Comida 1976, Chicano Art as Food Activism | L. Stephen Velasquez

Don’t Forget the Tomatoes for My Funeral | Teresa Politano

The Year of the Lobster: Decadence and Disgust in Pandemic Times | Andrew Simmons

Mixed Emotions: Cutting and Pasting through Loss, Detritus, and Forced Isolation During COVID-19 | Carolyn Tillie

Herrings, High-Rises, and Hongeo: Encounters with Korean Food Culture | Frank Dax

Rice Cultures of Bengal | Debal Deb


Fruteros: Street Vending, Illegality, and Ethnic Community in Los Angeles by Rocío Rosales
Reviewed by Noah Allison

Food Routes: Growing Bananas in Iceland and Other Tales from the Logistics of Eating by Robyn Metcalfe
Reviewed by Deborah Cowen

Cookbook Politics by Kennan Ferguson
Reviewed by Jennifer L. Holm

Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles by Laura Gabbert
Reviewed by Joe Karisny

Shifting Food Facts: Dietary Discourse in a Post-Truth Culture by Alissa Overend
Reviewed by Samantha King

The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life of James Beard by John Birdsall
Reviewed by Jennifer R. Shutek

The Sultan’s Feast: A Fifteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook
by Ibn Mubārak Shāh; edited, translated, and introduced by Daniel L. Newman

Reviewed by Limor Yungman

Summer 2021, Volume 21 Number 2

Editorial Letter | Paula J. Johnson

Eating (with) the Other: Race in American Food Television | Alison Hope Alkon and Rafi Grosglik

Anti-Black Racism in Food Advertising: Rogers’ Golden Syrup and the Imagery of White Supremacy in the Canadian West | Donica Belisle

Roundtable: The Great Italics Debate | The Gastronomica Editorial Collective

Chicken Politics: Agrifood Capitalism, Anxious Bodies, and the New Meanings of Chicken Meat in India | Michaël Bruckert

Household and Community Gardens Surge in the Philippines and Senegal during COVID-19: How Do Contrasting Models Speak to Different Visions for Future Food Systems? | Halie Kampman, Shun-Nan Chiang, and Salam Sawadogo

Japanese Immigrants’ Pantry: Creating Eating Habits and Identities with Brazilian Ingredients | Eric Funabashi

The Bittersweet Potato in the Taiwanese Imagination | Shang-Huei Liang

Kitchenlessness, or The Migrant’s Affair with Food | Gema Charmaine Gonzales

Digesting Peru in Brooklyn: The Flavor of Culinary Nationalism | Amy Cox Hall

Well Rooted: An Interview with Chef Rob Connoley | Daniel E. Bender

When the Rainbows Bring the Crawfish | V. Constanza Ocampo-Raeder

Before Everything Else | Anne Finger

Meditations on Entropy in the Kitchen | Sam Browett

Love, Math, and Brunello di Montalcino | Maria Finn

Sugarcane and Rum: The Bittersweet History of Labor and Life on the Yucatán Peninsula, by John R. Gust and Jennifer P. Mathews
Reviewed by Valeria Mantilla Morales

Feeding the Crisis: Care and Abandonment in America’s Food Safety Net, by Maggie Dickinson
Reviewed by Merin Oleschuk

Women Who Dig: Farming, Feminism, and the Fight to Feed the World, by Trina Moyles, photographs by KJ Dakin
Reviewed by Claire Perttula

Food Fights: How History Matters to Contemporary Food Debates, edited by Charles C. Ludington and Matthew M. Booker
Reviewed by Signe Rousseau

Of Morsels and Marvels by Maryse Condé, edited by Charles C. Ludington and Matthew M. Booker, translated by Richard Philcox
Reviewed by Jacqueline Sarro

Once Was Water, a film by Christopher Beaver and Diana Fuller
Reviewed by Christy Spackman

Politics of Food, edited by Aaron Cezar and Dani Burrows
Reviewed by Pamela Tudge

Spring 2021, Volume 21 Number 1

Editorial Letter | James Farrer

A Seat at the Table: The Western Dining Table as a Symbol of Power | Mackensie Griffin

“The Child Needs Milk and Milk Needs a Market”: The Politics of Nutrition in the Interwar Yishuv | Efrat Gilad

Ketchup as a Vegetable: Condiments and the Politics of School Lunch in Reagan’s America | Amy Bentley

Paqueteros and Paqueteras: Humanizing a Dehumanized Food System | Alyshia Gálvez

“If you haven’t shaoguo‘ed, you haven’t eaten”: Sensorial Landscapes of Belonging in the Kitchens of Rural China | Erin Thomason

Ruby’s Oyster Dressing, or Edible Nostalgia | Matthew Meduri

MasterChef: A Master Class in Fight, Flight, or Flambé? | Andrea Oskis

Around the World in 50 Restaurants: The Curious Irony of Hyperlocal Food | John Broadway

Spilling Ink and Cleaning Oil: The Intersection of Disaster and Design at La Marine | Rasmus R. Simonsen

Rumor, Chinese Diets, and COVID-19: Questions and Answers about Chinese Food and Eating Habits | Edited by Michelle T. King, Jia-Chen Fu, Miranda Brown, and Donny Santacaterina

Food Rescue Networks and the Food System | Leda Cooks

Feeding the City, Pandemic and Beyond: A Research Brief | Bryan Dale and Jayeeta Sharma

Lunch Interrupted! COVID-19 and Japan’s School Meals | Alexis Agliano Sanborn

“Muita Galinha, Pouco Ovo”: Food, COVID-19, and the Screen That Separates Us | Yara Ferreira Clüver

Bean Soup | Sayzie Koldys

Succulent | Alison Pearlman

Drinking to the Wolf in a Time of Pandemic (or War or Peace) | Gregory Emilio

El Susto, a film by Karen Akins
Reviewed by Melissa Fuster

Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water by Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt
Reviewed by David Gentilcore

Black Food Geographies: Race, Self-Reliance and Food Access in Washington, D.C. by Ashanté M. Reese
Reviewed by Chhaya Kolavalli

De los plátanos de Oller a los Food Trucks: Comida, alimentación y cocina puertorriqueña en ensayos y recetas (From Oller’s Plantains to Food Trucks: Food, Eating, and Puerto Rican Cuisine in Essays and Recipes)
by Cruz Miguel Ortiz Cuadra, Reviewed by Mónica B. Ocasio Vega

When Banana Ruled, a film by Mathilde Damoisel
Reviewed by Alyssa Paredes

Stirrings: How Activist New Yorkers Ignited a Movement for Food Justice by Lana Dee Povitz
Reviewed by Chris Staysniak

The Chile Pepper in China: A Cultural Biography
by Brian R. Dott, Reviewed by Mark Swislocki

Winter 2020, Volume 20 Number 4

Editorial Letter | Eric C. Rath

The Anxiety Kitchen, or Cooking for the People I Cannot Hug | Erica Berry

Looking for Relief | Caitlin McGill

Migration and Meal Boxes | Saanjh Gupta

The Food and COVID-19 NYC Archive: Mapping the Pandemic’s Effect on Food in Real Time | Amy Bentley and Stephanie Borkowsky

Decoding Miracle Food Cures for COVID-19 | Adrienne Bitar

“Do You Deliver?” Teaching a Culinary Arts Internship Course in Brooklyn as New York City Became the COVID-19 Epicenter | David Goldberg

Food and Art in Times of Crisis | Yael Raviv

Staff Meal in the Time of COVID-19 | Elizabeth Moroney

Salmon on the Table | John Gifford

Chicken for Everyone? A Cultural Political Economy of the Popularity of Chicken Meat in Bolivia | Sarah Kollnig

Viniculture, Social Justice, and the Environment | Scott Haas

Technology and Taste in East Asia: An Introduction | Eric C. Rath

Taste as Governor: Soy Sauce in Late Chosŏn and Colonial Korea | Kyoungjin Bae

Numbing Aesthetics: Taste and Tempers of Peppercorn / Mountain Pepper / Sanshō | Lan A. Li

Technologies of Taste: Restaurant Guides, Diners, and Dining Halls in Interwar Tokyo | Eric C. Rath

Food Desert or Food Oasis? Insights from Mexican Chicago | Coline Ferrant and Gary Alan Fine

Lucile’s Scrapbook: A Voyage around the World, 1937 | Daniel E. Bender

Respecting the Circle | Andrea Chase

Limoncello | Janine Certo

Eat Joy: Stories & Comfort Food from 31 Celebrated Writers
edited by Natalie Eve Garrett, reviewed by Julieta Flores Jurado

Lost Feast: Culinary Extinction and the Future of Food
by Lenore Newman, reviewed by L. Sasha Gora

Leftovers: Eating, Drinking and Re-thinking with Case Studies from Post-war French Fiction
by Ruth Cruickshank, reviewed by Jennifer L. Holm

A Taste of Barcelona: The History of Catalan Cooking and Eating
by H. Rosi Song and Anna Riera, reviewed by Marta Manzanares Mileo

Food, Feminisms, Rhetorics
edited by Melissa A. Goldthwaite, reviewed by Jennifer O’Connor

The Food Sharing Revolution: How Start-Ups, Pop-Ups, and Co-Ops Are Changing the Way We Eat
by Michael S. Carolan, reviewed by Chloé Poitevin-DesRivières

Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai America
by Mark Padoongpatt, reviewed by Lok Siu