Winter 2005, Volume 5, Number 1

Winter 2005, Volume 5, Number 1

from the editor
Outstanding in the Field 2004 | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
Mooreeffoc | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Second Sight: The Art of Joan Steiner | D Wood

poem
From “The Cemetery Beside the River” | Melanie Cameron

diet
Slow Food in a Fat Society: Satisfying Ethical Appetites | Heather Paxson

industry
Cast with Style: Nineteenth-Century Cast-Iron Stoves | Tammis Kane Groft

culture
The Prose (and Cons) of Vodka | Dmitrii Stakhov; translated by Thomas Newlin

interview
The Cooking Ape: An Interview with Richard Wrangham | Elisabeth Townsend

origins
Sicilian Manna: A Sweet Gift of Nature | Anna Tasca Lanza

memoir
In Search of Neon | Raymond Beauchemin

passages
One Year and a Day: A Recipe for Gumbo and Mourning | James Nolan

americana
Man Eats Dogs: The Hot Dog Stands of Chicago | Bruce Kraig; photographs by Patty Carroll

nutrition
“Take One More Bite for Me”: Clara Davis and the Feeding of Young Children | Benjamin Scheindlin, MD

investigations
Measuring Ingredients: Food and Domesticity in Mexican Casta Paintings | Nina M. Scott
Have Your Coke and Eat It Too: What Cooking with Coca-Cola Says about Cultural Imperialism | Anne E. McBride
Solving the Puzzle of Barolo and Barbaresco | Brian Smith

chef’s page
The Old Inn on the Green | Timothy Q. Cebula

review essays
Consuming Art | Carol Clark
Crazy for Gin | Lisa Hiley

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
Edible Hats | Alicia Rios

Cover: Oscar Rabine, “Signal and Laughing Cow” (2002); Courtesy of Michèle and Marc Ivasilevitch, A&C-Projects, Paris, France.

Fall 2004, Volume 4, Number 4

Fall 2004, Volume 4, Number 4

from the editor
Falling for Julia | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
Thirteen Ways of Looking at a Teapot | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Of Water and Chocolate | Mimi Hellman

poems
“The Butcher” and “At the New Ohio Hotel” | Maureen Abood

memoir
Rights of Passage: Crossing Over to the Candy Store | Jeannette Ferrary

traditions
The Ideal Christmas Dinner | Cathy Kaufman

investigations
Please Play with Your Food: An Incomplete Survey of Culinary Wonders in Italian Renaissance Cookery | Jeremy Parzen
Oishinbo‘s Adventures in Eating: Food, Communication, and Culture in Japanese Comics | Lorie Brau

lives
M. F. K. Fisher in France: The First Insouciant Spell (1929-1932) | Joan Reardon

opinion
Have Your Lunch and Eat It Too | Richard Watson

obsessions
Desperately Seeking Edouard: A Passion for de Pomiane | Margaret McArthur

origins
Edible Art: Springerle Cookies | Sharon Hudgins

photographs
From The Migrant Project: Contemporary California Farm Workers | Rick Nahmias

libations
Back from the Ashes: Resurrecting the Vineyards of Pompeii | Patricia Thompson

pharmacology
Aphrodisiac Foods: Bringing Heaven to Earth | Miriam Hospodar

dining out
Late Night in the Lion’s Den: Chinese Restaurant-Nightclubs in 1940s San Francisco | Harley Spiller

chef’s page
Restaurant Fond, Gothenburg, Sweden | Stefan Karlsson

review essays
Ethical Eating | Ronald D. LeBlanc
In the Belly of the Beast: Microbial Dangers and Regulatory Debacles | Lois Banta

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
Music with Taste

Cover: Giovanna Garzoni, Still Life with Pomegranate (detail). Scala/Art Resource, New York.

Summer 2004, Volume 4, Number 3

Summer 2004, Volume 4, Number 3

from the editor
An Act of Ordering | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
Bread and Meat for God’s Sake | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Roger Fenton’s “Flowers and Fruit” | Thomas Weston Fels

poem
A Shallot | Richard Wilbur; French translation by Jean Migrenne; Illustration by Julio Granda

americana
Black Magic: Old Coke and the New South | Timothy C. Davis

origins
Spreewälder Gurken: Pickled Cucumbers from the Spreewald | Ursula Heinzelmann

organized crime
The Egg Cream Racket | Andrew Coe

watched pot
Wok Hay: The Breath of a Wok | Grace Young

photographs
From the “Corpus Inductum” series | Mary Beth Heffernan

diet
The Other Atkins Revolution: Atkins and the Shifting Culture of Dieting | Amy Bentley

investigations
The Parrot Eaters: Psittacophagy in the Renaissance and Beyond | Bruce Boehrer
Power Meal: Craig Claiborne’s Last Supper for the New York Times | Mitchell Davis

memoir
Born-Again Kosher | Nancy Davidson

point of view
The Gentle Rise of (Real) Cake | Lisa Yockelson

libations
Bitter Alchemy | Deirdre Heekin

working on the food chain
About Pluots | William Brantley

cultural affairs
Incorporating Terroir: L’Affaire Mondavi Reconsidered | Amy B. Trubek

world wide food
Dutch Treat | José van Mil

chef’s page
The Evolution of a Chef | François de Mélogue

review essays
Dialogue of Cuisines | Leyla Rouhi
The Insatiable City | Kyri Watson Claflin

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
To the Platter Born | Debbie Moose

Cover: Mona Hatoum, T42 (1998). Courtesy Alexander and Bonin, New York.

Spring 2004, Volume 4, Number 2

Spring 2004, Volume 4, Number 2

from the editor
The Way We Live Now | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
Strange Cousins | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Martianmallow: Food for the Inner Alien | Marion Lee and Thomas Beischer

poem
Today’s special dish | Nina Lindsay

classics
Still Life with Frittata | Teresa Lust

politics
“GM or Death”: Food and Choice in Zambia | Christopher M. Annear

memoir
Motherfood | Jan Zita Grover

bibliography
Over the Top: The Extravagant Confectionery of J.M. Erich Weber | Francine Kirsch

investigations
Romanced by Cookbooks | Anne L. Bower
Food Stories | John Clark

technology
Grinding Away the Rust: The Legacy of Iceland’s Herring Oil and Meal Factories | Chris Bogan

celebrations
A Highland Ceilidh | Ethel G. Hofman

the law
When the IRS Came to Dinner | Elizabeth Williams

photographs
Scenes from American Life | Eric Futran

passages
Lucien Robert: De Temps en Temps | Elizabeth Riely

origins
Nebam Sirme: Preserving Milk and Tradition | Bronwen Bromberger

in memoriam
Linda Formichelli, Leftover Artist, 1969-2060 | W. Eric Martin

chef’s page
From the Heart of the Yucatán: El Turix, Cozumel, Mexico | Rafael Ponce

notes on vintage volumes
“What is your name? My name is Ah Quong. Well, I will call you Charlie.” | Jan Longone

review essay
Bittersweet | Sidney W. Mintz

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
Gastrabulary: A Future Terminology of Eating | Ken Albala and Lisa Cooperman

Cover: Man Ray, Homme (1920). Jedermann Collection, N.A. Image © 2004 Man Ray Trust/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/adagp, Paris.

Winter 2004, Volume 4, Number 1

Winter 2004, Volume 4, Number 1

from the editor
Food from the Heart | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
Eat Your Words | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Delicious Deception: Wax Parlor Art in Nineteenth-Century America | Dorothy Moss

poem
To Jacques Pépin | Shanna Compton

family history
If This Is Wednesday, It Must Be Liver Loaf | Will Pritchard

religion
Divine Liturgy | D Wood

terroir
The Spirit of Place | Lawrence Osborne

technology
The Clockwork Roasting Jack | Jeanne Schinto

taste
Food Science and Consumer Taste | Alain-Claude Roudot

investigations
Chunky Soup: The Sumotori Diet | Jonathan Deutsch

Feeding Your Face: Fan Fare and Status at a Sumo Tournament | Merry White
Haunted Kitchens: Cooking and Remembering | Jean Duruz

americana
Quick Lunch | Jan Whitaker

ritual
Agni’s Flames | Raghavan Iyer

fashion
Food + Clothing = | Robert Kushner

shopping
Fancy Groceries | Robert Kaufelt

world wide food
South Africa’s Rainbow Cuisine | Lannice Snyman

chef’s page
Pierre Hermé: Creating a Collection | Dorie Greenspan

at the movies
A Love Supreme and Dim Sum | Sukhdev Sandhu

review essay
A Journey to the West: Chinese Food in Western Countries | Yong Chen

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
Terms of Endearment | Karen Salmansohn

Cover: Leon Bakst, “Supper” (1902). Owned by the State Russian Museum, St. Petersburg.