Spring 2006, Volume 6, Number 2

Spring 2006, Volume 6, Number 2

from the editor
Feeding Desire | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
RIP | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Nayland Blake’s Feeder 2 | Ian Berry

memoir
The Kitchen with Seven Doors | Laura Calder

poem
The First Still Life | Lawrence Raab

community
Eating Ivy | Lisa Harper

personal history
Never Alone | Betty Fussell

illustrations
Pretty Plates about Digestion | Amanda Dumas-Hernandez

investigations
The Modern Offal Eaters | Jeremy Strong
Clock Time/Stomach Time | Raymond D. Boisvert

taste
Q | Zoe Tribur

foraging
Molly Mooching on Bradley Mountain: The Aesthetic Ecology of Appalachian Morels | Mary Hufford

antipathies
Incensed: Food Smells and Ethnic Tension | Benjamin Aldes Wurgaft

humor
Too Smart to Eat? A Tale of Precocious Pigs and Slick Chickens | David Hollander

celebrations
You Crack Me Up! | Raymond Beauchemin

americana
More Than Meets the Bun: The 1991 Sutter Home Build a Better Burger Contest | Robert Chirico

libations
The Truth in Thai Wine | Stuart Pigott

chef’s page
Andina Restaurant, Portland, Oregon | Doris Rodriguez de Platt

notes on vintage volumes
“Grow Strong and Great as I Have” | Jan Longone

at the movies
Wine Is Dead! Long Live Wine! | Amy B. Trubek

review essays
Vanilla Odyssey | Meryle Evans

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
Everything but the Apples | Janna Weaver

Cover: F. Nicoud silvered and gilt metal, mother-of-pearl dessert servers, France, ca. 1890. Cooper-Hewitt,
National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution. Museum purchase from SI Collections Acquisition
Program, Decorative Arts Association Acquisition, and Sarah Cooper-Hewitt Funds. Photo: Andrew Garn.

Winter 2006, Volume 6, Number 1

Winter 2006, Volume 6, Number 1

from the editor
The Nature of Nurture | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
Boning Up on Language | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Edward Ruscha’s Chocolate Room | Liza Statton

poem
The Reluctant Dinner Guest | Carolyn Miller

archive
A Medieval Food List from the Monastery of Cluny | Kirk Ambrose

culture shock
Italian Butcher Shop Blues | Matthew Gavin Frank

evolutions
Sake in the Wind | Jim Clarke

interview
Organic in Mexico: A Conversation with Diana Kennedy | L. Peat O’Neil

food arts
On Dining and Creating | Jim Denevan with Chesley Chen

investigations
Shakespearean Jell-O: Mortality and Malleability in the Kitchen | Wendy Wall
Barossa Slow: The Representation and Rhetoric of Slow Food’s Regional Cooking | Adrian Peace

taste
In Pursuit of the Cream Waffle | Lisa Yockelson

science
The Oyster’s French Revolution: Testing a Nation’s Reaction to a Lab-Produced Delicacy | Mohamed Merdji and Gervaise Debucquet, with Andrew Taylor

working on the food chain
“Pure” Maple Syrup? | Matthew Holmes

memoir
The Only Way to Know the Taste of a Pear Is to Eat It | Alexandra Stein

photographers
Back of the House | Michael Harlan Turkell

technology
Wheat into Flour: A Story of Milling | Fran Gage

chef’s page
Le Dog, Ann Arbor, Michigan | Jules Van Dyck-Dobos

review essays
Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner? Food Fights and Regime Change | Kyri Watson Claflin

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
London City Tongue Plate | Miralda

Cover: Andy Warhol, Silver Coke Bottle (1967), silver paint on glass Coke bottle with metal cap, 8 x 2 3/8 inches. ©The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts/ARS, NY.

Fall 2005, Volume 5, Number 4

Fall 2005, Volume 5, Number 4

from the editor
Fusing Culture, Fusing Cuisine | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
Boning Up on Language | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Fruits and Vegetables as Sexual Metaphor in Late Renaissance Rome | John Varriano

poem
fatted | Peter O’Leary

memoir
Envy’s Sweet Origin | Karen Pepper

in memoriam
Fulton Street Fish Market | Maria Finn Dominguez

seasons
Small Round Things | Chitrita Banerji

illustration
Where Beauty Resides | Jenny Kimball

technology
Focus on the Fridge | Margaret B. Blackman

investigations
A Short History of MSG: Good Science, Bad Science, and Taste Cultures | Jordan Sand
Alexis Soyer’s Gastronomic Symposium of All Nations | April Bullock

classics
The Satyrica Concluded | Andrew Dalby

lives
A Taste for Menus: Henry Voigt Touches History | Jeanne Schinto

archive
Frightening the Game | Charles Perry

interview
Critter Cuisine: An Interview with Al and Mary Ann Clayton | Vivian Patterson

community
The MacDowell Recipe | Ted Weesner, Jr.

working on the food chain
Kamut: A New Old Grain | Gordon Sacks

personal history
Opa! Belly Dancing and Greek Barrel Wine | DeAnna Putnam

chef’s page
AKWA: Commercializing Creativity | Will Goldfarb

review essays
Keeping a Good House | Leni Sorensen
Pomp and Circumstance | Jason Sholl

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
The Porcineograph

Cover: Juan Hidalgo, Un pan má (1999-2001), © Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/VEGAP, Madrid

Summer 2005, Volume 5, Number 3

Summer 2005, Volume 5, Number 3

from the editors
The Woman Behind the Icon | Darra Goldstein and Corky White

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

poems
Birthday Poems for Julia | Paul Child

illustration
The Joy of Julia | Ed Koren

tribute
My Friend Julia Child | Jacques Pépin

insights
Writing Pulia | Alex Prud’homme

A Full Measure of Humor | Stephanie Hersh
Julia’s Greatest Lesson | Sara Moulton
La Bella Julia | Franco Romagnoli

kitchen stories
Julia: The Ever-Curious Cook | Judith Jones

In Julia Child’s Kitchen, October 5, 1998 | David Nussbaum

personal history
A Woman of Affairs | Julia McWilliams

conversations
Charlotte and Julia | Nina M. Scott

rites of passage
Julia at Smith | Alice Julier

investigations
Sacred Cows and Dreamberries: In Search of the Flavor of France | Laura Shapiro
Mastering the Art of French Cooking: A Near Classic or a Near Miss | Joan Reardon

devotees
Notre Dame de la Cuisine and the Prince des Gastronomes | Noel Riley Fitch

scrapbook
Remembering Julia | Anne Willan, Jasper White, Susan Hermann Loomis, Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson, Richard Dyck, Nach Waxman, Jill Norman, Susan Regis, Daphne Derven, Noriko Nakamura, Jessica Battilana, Rebecca Alssid

interlude
Bon Appétit! | Lee Hoiby

interview
A Conversation with Julia Child, Spring 1984 | Sharon Hudgins

politics
Whatever Would Julia Say Now? | Merry White
Cooking Up a Storm | Darra Goldstein

archive
A Menu Fit for a King

pastimes
In France with Julia | Patrick Healy

point of view
Stardom and the Hungry Public | Benjamin Aldes Wurgaft

diary
Notes from a Cataloger’s Diary | Susan Riecken

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
Bubble Bath

Cover: Elsa Dorfman, “Julia” (1988), 22″ x 28″, courtesy of the Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute, Harvard University. www.elsa.photo.net

Spring 2005, Volume 5, Number 2

Spring 2005, Volume 5, Number 2

from the editor
Weighing In | Darra Goldstein

borborygmus
Rumblings from the World of Food

orts and scantlings
Missing Delicacies | Mark Morton

feast for the eye
Challenging Consumption: Kara Walker’s Keys to the Coop | Alisa Swindell

poem
“Shelf Life” and “Carbohydrate Vincit Omnia” | Joan Digby

forum
Antipodean Psittacophagy: An Exchange | Paul van Reyk and Bruce Boehrer

diet
Recipes for Dyspepsia | Nancy Pick

working on the food chain
In Search of the Perfect Peach | John Grossmann

memoir
The Unbearable Lightness of Wartime Cuisine | Alma Marin

psychology
Why A Chef? A Journey into the Darkest Regions of the Kitchen | Scott Haas

investigations
Consuming Passions: Eating and the Stage at the Fin de Siècle | Laurence Senelick
Monuments to the Birds: Dovecotes and Pigeon Eating in the Land of Fields | Jane Canova

commerce
Artful Dodges | Jeri Quinzio

americana
Bonac Clam Pie | Brian Halweil

origins
Wedding Cake: A Slice of History | Carol Wilson

food play
From Une assiette poétique | Tzu Chen Chen, Eric Egron, and Dora Maltz

libations
Loose on the High Seas: Covert Winemaking on the Wawona | Joe Follansbee

prose
Sadie’s Tomatoes | Jack Foster

fundamentals
Mesquite Flour: New Life for an Ancient Staple | Peter Felker

chef’s page
An Interview with Michael Mina | Jonathan Hayes

at the movies
Movies to Eat Carrots By | Rebecca L. Epstein

review essay
Eating Well in the Italian Kitchen | Fred Plotkin

the bookshelf
Books in Review

lagniappe
Dark Thoughts | Peggy Diggs

Cover: Julia Jacquette, “Fruit and Jello Platter” (1997), enamel on wood, 22″ x 28″, courtesy of the artist. Photograph by Bill Orcutt.