Spring 2020, Volume 20 Number 1

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Simone Cinotto

STREET MARKETS, STREET FOOD: MOBILITY AND DIVERSITY OUT IN THE OPEN
SOAS Address: Rethinking Street Vending | Krishnendu Ray

Chiles, Markets, and the Liveliness of the City | Sandra C. Mendiola García

Looking Backward to Go Forward | Jane Battersby

Epilogue: A Roundtable on Street Vending | Noah Allison and Jaclyn Rohel

FOOD, CULTURE, AND NATION
In a Basiji Kitchen: Halal Jello, Biomorality, and Blessing in the Islamic Republic of Iran | Rose Wellman

Some Tasting Notes on Year-Old Sushi: Funazushi, Japan’s Most Ancient and Potentially Its Most Up-to-Date Sushi | Eric C. Rath

Cooking Irish in the People’s Republic of China | Paul Lewis

Oyster Shells on a Plate | Courtney Nzeribe

POLITICS AND ETHICS OF TASTE
What Is a Superfood Anyway? Six Key Ingredients for Making a Food “Super” | Melinda Butterworth, Georgia Davis, Kristina Bishop, Luz Reyna, and Alyssa Rhodes

Confronting Whiteness in Kansas City’s Local Food Movement: Diversity Work and Discourse on Privilege and Power | Chhaya Kolavalli

A Summer in Newfoundland: Living Somewhat Locally | Victoria Dickenson

Fresh with Cabbage | Jaina Cipriano

MIGRANT FOOD MEMORIES
Interview with Kim Thúy: Secrets from My Vietnamese Kitchen: Simple Recipes from My Many Mothers | Anelyse M. Weiler

THE JOURNAL FOR FOOD STUDIES
A Literary History of the Mandarin Orange in Canada | Shelley Boyd, Nathalie Cooke, and Alexia Moyer

REVIEWS
Life on the Other Border: Farmworkers and Food Justice in Vermont
by Teresa M. Mares, reviewed by Jessica Carbone

The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia (25th Anniversary Edition)
by Darra Goldstein, reviewed by Maya Moore

Canned: The Rise and Fall of Consumer Confidence in the American Food Industry
by Anna Zeide, reviewed by Justin Nordstrom

GMOs Decoded: A Skeptic’s View of Genetically Modified Foods
by Sheldon Krimsky, reviewed by Gerardo Otero

Still Hungry in America
Photographs by Al Clayton, Text by Robert Coles, Introduction by Edward M. Kennedy, New Foreword, reviewed by Shannon Thomas Perich

Here Let Us Feast: A Book of Banquets
by M. F. K. Fisher, reviewed by Helen Zoe Veit

Winter 2019, Volume 19 Number 4

gfc_1904_cover

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Amy B. Trubek

GASTRONOMIC TRANSLATIONS
Cookery and Copyright: A History of One Cookbook in Three Acts | Carrie Helms Tippen, Heidi S. Hakimi-Hood, and Amanda Milian

Gastronomic Practice in Zhang Tongzhi’s List of Jinling’s Delicacies | Andrea Montanari

Caravaggio’s Artichokes | Jesse Locker

CULINARY TRANSFORMATIONS
Icelandic Cake Fight: History of an Immigrant Recipe | Laurie K. Bertram

A Katsuobushi Story: Preserving Fish and Preserving Tradition | Ken Albala

Seaweed Consumption in the Americas | José Lucas Pérez-Lloréns

HOSPITABLE VISIONS
Digesting the Massacre: Food Tours in Palestinian Towns in Israel | Azri Amram

Restaurant 2.0 | Amy B. Trubek

BEER: FROM FIELD TO GLASS
Craft Beer’s Unlikely Alchemist | Theresa McCulla

Body and Soul of a Good Pint: A Note on Nordic Brewing and the Magic of Yeast | Nefissa Naguib

PHOTO ESSAY
Spice Trade 3.0: Exploring the Modern Spice Trade in Vietnam’s Northern Frontier | Sarah Turner, Mélie Monnerat, and Patrick Slack

REVIEWS
Modern Moonshine: The Revival of White Whiskey in the Twenty-First Century
Edited by Cameron D. Lippard and Bruce E. Stewart, reviewed by Douglas H. Constance

Beeronomics: How Beer Explains the World
By Johan Swinnen and Devin Briski, reviewed by Aaron Ellis

Capitalist Pigs: Pigs, Pork, and Power in America
By J.L. Anderson, reviewed by Thomas Fleischman

The Flavor of Wood: In Search of the Wild Taste of Trees from Smoke and Sap to Root and Bark
By Artur Cisar-Erlach, reviewed by Michael A. Lange

The New Food Activism: Opposition, Cooperation, and Collective Action
Edited by Alison Hope Alkon and Julie Guthman, reviewed by Brendan O’Neill

Feeding the Other: Whiteness, Privilege, and Neoliberal Stigma in Food Pantries
By Rebecca de Souza, reviewed by Andrea Solazzo

Chop Suey Nation: The Surprising History and Vibrant Present of Small-Town Chinese Restaurants from Victoria, BC, to Fogo Island, NL
By Ann Hui, reviewed by Koby Song-Nichols

Fall 2019, Volume 19 Number 3

gfc_1903_cover

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Daniel Bender

PRESERVATIONS
The Race against Rot: Gastronomica’s New Editorial Team Weighs in on Saving Food | Anelyse M. Weiler, Sarah Elton, and Josée Johnston, eds

Preservation Pedagogy | Donna Gabaccia, with Nana Frimpong and Gillian MacCulloch

Food Savers or Food Saviors? Food Waste, Food Recovery Networks, and Food Justice | Leda Cooks

SURVIVALS
Survival in a Climate of Change: The Origins and Evolution of Nomadic Dairying in Mongolia | Paul S. Kindstedt and Tsetsgee Ser-Od

Sourcing and Saving Food in Siberian Kitchens | Sharon Hudgins

PRACTICES/TRADITIONS
Un-Modernist Cuisine | Helen Veit with Sean Sherman and Elizabeth Woody

Savoring Decay: Cheese, Heritage, and the Allure of Imminent Dissolution | Harry G. West

The Art of Saving Food: Preserving Gestures in Ymane Fakhirs Video Installation, Handmade (2011–12) | Sylvie Durmelat

SALVATIONS/WELL-BEING
The Gastronomical “She”: Narrating (Dis)Embodiment in M.F.K. Fisher’s Memoir | Victoria Burns

Saving Food, Saving Culture

Happy Treat: Food and Drink as Important Parts of Daily Life and Happiness | Ines Sučić, Tihana Brkljačić, Ljiljana Kaliterna Lipovčan, Renata Glavak-Tkalić, Lana Lučić

REVIEWS
French Gastronomy and the Magic of Americanism
By Rick Fantasia, reviewed by Sarah Cappeliez

Sugar and the Making of International Trade Law
By Michael Fakhri, reviewed by Ernesto Hernández-López

Food and Health in Early Modern Europe: Diet, Medicine and Society, 1450–1800
By David Gentilcore, reviewed by Ellen M. Ireland

Pressure Cooker: Why Home Cooking Won’t Solve Our Problems and What We Can Do about It
By Sarah Bowen, Joslyn Brenton, and Sinikka Elliott, reviewed by Josée Johnston

Feed the Resistance: Recipes + Ideas for Getting Involved
By Julia Turshen, reviewed by Jennifer O’Connor

Potato
By Rebecca Earle, reviewed by Amy Trubek

Keepers of the Future: La Coordinadora of El Salvador
By Avi Lewis, Director, reviewed by Anelyse M. Weiler

Spring 2019, Volume 19 Number 1

gfc_1804_cover

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

RESEARCH ARTICLES
Legalism in the Kitchen: Relativizing the Ethics and Performance of Gastronomic Expertise | Michael Herzfeld

Potatoes and the Pursuit of Happiness | Rebecca Earle

On Apples and Anarchy | Kathryn R. Falvo

Life below the Bombing: How the Champagne Caves Saved the City of Reims, France, and Its People during World War I | Karl J. Peterson

Digging In | David Haeselin

The Hansik Globalization Campaign: A Malaysian Critique | Gaik Cheng Khoo

Old Sake in New Glasses: Reframing Japan’s National Drink through Global Wine Culture | Chuanfei Wang

RE-EXAMINING THE CONTESTED GOOD
Re-examining the Contested Good: Proceedings from a Postgraduate Workshop on Good Food | Katharina Graf, Anna Cohen, Brandi Simpson Miller, and Francesca Vaghi

Making Good Meat: From Draft Animal to Local Speciality | Anna Colquhoun

A Good Death: Livestock Slaughter as Alternative Food System Advocacy | Megan Larmer

Impure Foods: Entanglements of Soil, Food, and Human Health in Bangladesh | Camelia Dewan

Global Food Systems and Local Diets | Mehroosh Tak

Children’s Food: Material and Discursive Contradictions | Francesca Vaghi

The Price of Homemade Bread | Katharina Graf

Can the Food of Our Enemies Become Good Food? | Claudia Prieto-Piastro

The Moral and Ethical Aspects of Gold Coast Foodways | Brandi Simpson Miller

Postcolonial Macau: Race, Morality, Taste, and Power | Mukta Das

REVIEW ESSAY
Liquid Power: Advanced Orientalism and True Taste in Japanese Whiskies | Merry White

REVIEWS
The Fermented Man: A Year on the Front Lines of a Food Revolution
By Derek Dellinger, reviewed by William Barton

Meat Culture
Edited by Annie Potts, reviewed by Nathan Poirer

Coming to My Senses: The Making of a Counterculture Cook
By Alice Waters, reviewed by Todd C. Ream

Interpreting Food at Museums and Historic Sites
By Michelle Moon, reviewed by Mark S. Warner

BOOKS AND FILMS RECEIVED