Fall 2020, Volume 20 Number 3

Editorial Letter | Robert T. Valgenti

FROM THE KITCHEN
Recipe for Wild Dandelions | Sandra Trujillo

It’s Never Just about Food: Teaching Homeschool Food History from a Pandemic Pantry | Katherine Hysmith

Daylily Samosa | Kiyomi Seko

Distractibaking: A Note on the Psychology of Baking in Times of the COVID-19 Crisis | Sebastian Ocklenburg

The Aroma of the Old Kitchen | Laia Shamirian Pulido

Bad Virus, Good Microbes: The Global Domestication of Yeast Cultures and the COVID-19 Pandemic | Noa Berger and Daniel Monterescu

Eating the Plague | Ariana Gunderson

No Vegetarians in a Pandemic | Sarah E. Cramer

Festival in the Time of COVID-19 | Naa Oyo A. Kwate

FROM THE PASS
Anticipation | Mike Bacha

Face Mask for Food in the Time of COVID-19 | Carl Fleischhauer

The Sickness unto Hospitality | Stephen Meinster

Port in a Storm: Weathering the COVID-19 Crisis as a Restaurant Worker | Carlynn Crosby

Puerto Rico’s Neverending Crisis | Rafael N. Ruiz Mederos

Everything Will Be All Right | Giuseppe Ceccarelli

On the Other Side of the Curve: China’s Restaurateurs Face an Uphill Battle | James Farrer

Before It All Goes Away | Daryl Li

Community Health Research, Restaurants, and Adjusting amid Uncertainty | Melissa Fuster

Your Local Chinese Place Has a “Shelter-in-Place Dinner Special” | Dustin Wright

Weeded from Home | Emma Honcharski

FROM THE TABLE
The Stockpile and the Letdown | Jessica Carbone

The Enduring Hand of Italian Cuisine | Nicola Iafrate

So Far, Not Much Has Changed | Hannah Camp-Arthur

Making Rasam by the Eye during Uncertain Times | Smruthi Bala Kannan

Social Eating 2.0 | G. Solorzano, Emilia Cordero Oceguera, Heather McCarty Johnson and Sarah Bowen

Commensality in Crisis | Caitlin Morgan

What Will I Feed My Family Today? Food Decisions during COVID-19 on the US-Mexico Borderlands | Guillermina Gina Núñez-Mchiri

The Approaching Apocalypse | Krishnendu Ray

FROM THE COMMUNITY
Ration | Bharati Chaturvedi

A COVID-19 Relief Kitchen Created by an Unexpected Advocate | Ashley Rose Young

Food Insecurity and Bayanihan in the Locked-Down Philippines | Marvin Joseph F. Montefrio

A Privilege for All Times | Priti Narayan

Adapting Queer Foodways | Gabrielle Lenart

“Checking In with Your People”: Food, Mutual Aid, Black Feminism, and COVID-19 | Makshya Lenia Tolbert

Feeding Abandoned Animals in the Pandemic | Aditya Kiran Nag

Lockdown Destitution: Delhi, March 2020 | Saumya Gupta

“Normal” Lunch in a Pandemic: Shining a Spotlight on Chicago Public Schools’ Food | Aiko Kojima Hibino

The Impact of COVID-19 on Dutch Food Banks: A Call on Government to Guarantee the Right-to-Food | Jeroen Candel and Ingrid de Zwarte

Government Response to Support Local Farmers in the Face of COVID-19: A Case of South Korea | Seulgi Son

Is Life Only about a Virus? COVID-19 and Its Impact on Food Security | Lis Blanco

FROM THE MARKET
Buy an Orange | Emily Monaco

When Staples Vanished: Supermarket Panic-Buying during the COVID-19 Pandemic | Erin C. Kawazu and Fernando Ortiz-Moya

Dispatch from an Essential Worker | Danielle Jacques

A Middle-Class Neighborhood Survives a Pandemic | Shayani Raneesha Jayasinghe

Reclaiming Roots | Jessica Evans

Junk Food Solidarity | Ree Pashley

Here, with a Handbasket | Stephanie Jolly

Brotzeit: Dispatch from Munich | L. Sasha Gora

South Africa under Lockdown | Jacques Rousseau

I Miss the Grocery Store the Most | Amanda Blum

FROM OUR FOODWAYS
Labor and the Love of Asparagus | Sebile Yapici

In Quarantined France | Ciara McLaren

Uncertainty and Broken Foodways | Alejandro Dungla

Italian Farmers and Migrant Farmworkers: Food Activism and Food Justice in the Time of COVID-19 | Patrizia La Trecchia

Sociability, Farmers’ Markets, and COVID-19 | Amy B. Trubek

Migrants Bearing the Brunt of Lockdown | Dharmendra Kumar

On COVID-19: Food and/as Mutualism | Rachel Vaughn

Fighting COVID-19 with Anti-Corona Sandesh | Ishita Dey

Blue City | Josie Martin

REVIEWS
Good Apples: Behind Every Bite
by Susan Futrell, reviewed by Ning Dai

Food Justice and Narrative Ethics: Reading Stories for Ethical Awareness and Activism
by Beth A. Dixon, reviewed by Eric Himmelfarb

Grain by Grain: A Quest to Revive Ancient Wheat, Rural Jobs, and Healthy Food
by Bob Quinn and Liz Carlisle, reviewed by Carolyn Hricko

How the Shopping Cart Explains Global Consumerism
by Andrew Warnes, reviewed by Lisa Stowe

Messy Eating: Conversations on Animals as Food
edited by Samantha King, R. Scott Carey, Isabel Macquarrie, Victoria N. Millious, and Elaine M. Power, reviewed by Brody Trottier

Food Democracy: Critical Lessons in Food, Communication, Design and Art
edited by Oliver Vodeb, reviewed by Pamela Tudge

Summer 2020, Volume 20 Number 2

EDITORIAL LETTER
Editor’s Letter | Signe Rousseau

LANGUAGE, MYTHMAKING, TRANSMISSION
Disciplining Polenta: A Parody on the Politics of Saving Food | Zachary Nowak, Bradley M. Jones, and Elisa Ascione

The Yeoman Myth: A Troubling Foundation of the Beginning Farmer Movement | Adam Calo

“Blue Steak, Red Peas”: Science, Marketing, and the Making of a Culinary Myth | Joel Harold Tannenbaum

What a Little Hilltop in Abruzzo Can Tell Us about Words for Place | Susan H. Gordon

(CHANGING) TRADITIONS
The “Japanese Turn” in Fine Dining in the United States, 1980–2020 | Samuel H. Yamashita

Xylella fastidiosa and the Olive Oil Crisis in Puglia | Carl Ipsen

Worry-Nostalgia: Anxieties around the Fading of Local Cuisines and Foodways |
Sarah Trainer, Jessica Hardin, Cindi SturtzSreetharan, and Alexandra Brewis

Competitive Coffee Making and the Crafting of the Ideal Barista | Sabine Parrish

SAVING, FERMENTING, REMEMBERING FOOD
“Sandorkraut” and the Truth about Rot | Frances Cannon

Three Burgers | Corey S. Pressman

Viga’s Public Market: The Commons in the Hands of Farmers and the Poor | Text and Photographs by David Bacon

REVIEWS
A Foodie’s Guide to Capitalism: Understanding the Political Economy of What We Eat
by Eric Holt-Giménez, reviewed by Ali Brooks

The Fate of Food: What We’ll Eat in a Bigger, Hotter, Smarter World
by Amanda Little, reviewed by Donald C. Cole

Mouthfeel: How Texture Makes Taste
by Ole G. Mouritsen and Klavs Styrbæk,translated by Mariela Johansen, reviewed by Joel Dickau

Wilted: Pathogens, Chemicals, and the Fragile Future of the Strawberry Industry
by Julie Guthman, reviewed by Laura-Anne Minkoff-Zern

Whitewash: The Story of a Weed Killer, Cancer, and the Corruption of Science
by Carey Gillam, reviewed by Nick Rose

Domestication Gone Wild: Politics and Practices of Multispecies Relations
edited by Heather Anne Swanson, Marianne Elisabeth Lien, and Gro B. Ween,
reviewed by Daniel Allen Solomon

Spring 2020, Volume 20 Number 1

FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Simone Cinotto

STREET MARKETS, STREET FOOD: MOBILITY AND DIVERSITY OUT IN THE OPEN
SOAS Address: Rethinking Street Vending | Krishnendu Ray

Chiles, Markets, and the Liveliness of the City | Sandra C. Mendiola García

Looking Backward to Go Forward | Jane Battersby

Epilogue: A Roundtable on Street Vending | Noah Allison and Jaclyn Rohel

FOOD, CULTURE, AND NATION
In a Basiji Kitchen: Halal Jello, Biomorality, and Blessing in the Islamic Republic of Iran | Rose Wellman

Some Tasting Notes on Year-Old Sushi: Funazushi, Japan’s Most Ancient and Potentially Its Most Up-to-Date Sushi | Eric C. Rath

Cooking Irish in the People’s Republic of China | Paul Lewis

Oyster Shells on a Plate | Courtney Nzeribe

POLITICS AND ETHICS OF TASTE
What Is a Superfood Anyway? Six Key Ingredients for Making a Food “Super” | Melinda Butterworth, Georgia Davis, Kristina Bishop, Luz Reyna, and Alyssa Rhodes

Confronting Whiteness in Kansas City’s Local Food Movement: Diversity Work and Discourse on Privilege and Power | Chhaya Kolavalli

A Summer in Newfoundland: Living Somewhat Locally | Victoria Dickenson

Fresh with Cabbage | Jaina Cipriano

MIGRANT FOOD MEMORIES
Interview with Kim Thúy: Secrets from My Vietnamese Kitchen: Simple Recipes from My Many Mothers | Anelyse M. Weiler

THE JOURNAL FOR FOOD STUDIES
A Literary History of the Mandarin Orange in Canada | Shelley Boyd, Nathalie Cooke, and Alexia Moyer

REVIEWS
Life on the Other Border: Farmworkers and Food Justice in Vermont
by Teresa M. Mares, reviewed by Jessica Carbone

The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia (25th Anniversary Edition)
by Darra Goldstein, reviewed by Maya Moore

Canned: The Rise and Fall of Consumer Confidence in the American Food Industry
by Anna Zeide, reviewed by Justin Nordstrom

GMOs Decoded: A Skeptic’s View of Genetically Modified Foods
by Sheldon Krimsky, reviewed by Gerardo Otero

Still Hungry in America
Photographs by Al Clayton, Text by Robert Coles, Introduction by Edward M. Kennedy, New Foreword, reviewed by Shannon Thomas Perich

Here Let Us Feast: A Book of Banquets
by M. F. K. Fisher, reviewed by Helen Zoe Veit

Winter 2019, Volume 19 Number 4

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FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Amy B. Trubek

GASTRONOMIC TRANSLATIONS
Cookery and Copyright: A History of One Cookbook in Three Acts | Carrie Helms Tippen, Heidi S. Hakimi-Hood, and Amanda Milian

Gastronomic Practice in Zhang Tongzhi’s List of Jinling’s Delicacies | Andrea Montanari

Caravaggio’s Artichokes | Jesse Locker

CULINARY TRANSFORMATIONS
Icelandic Cake Fight: History of an Immigrant Recipe | Laurie K. Bertram

A Katsuobushi Story: Preserving Fish and Preserving Tradition | Ken Albala

Seaweed Consumption in the Americas | José Lucas Pérez-Lloréns

HOSPITABLE VISIONS
Digesting the Massacre: Food Tours in Palestinian Towns in Israel | Azri Amram

Restaurant 2.0 | Amy B. Trubek

BEER: FROM FIELD TO GLASS
Craft Beer’s Unlikely Alchemist | Theresa McCulla

Body and Soul of a Good Pint: A Note on Nordic Brewing and the Magic of Yeast | Nefissa Naguib

PHOTO ESSAY
Spice Trade 3.0: Exploring the Modern Spice Trade in Vietnam’s Northern Frontier | Sarah Turner, Mélie Monnerat, and Patrick Slack

REVIEWS
Modern Moonshine: The Revival of White Whiskey in the Twenty-First Century
Edited by Cameron D. Lippard and Bruce E. Stewart, reviewed by Douglas H. Constance

Beeronomics: How Beer Explains the World
By Johan Swinnen and Devin Briski, reviewed by Aaron Ellis

Capitalist Pigs: Pigs, Pork, and Power in America
By J.L. Anderson, reviewed by Thomas Fleischman

The Flavor of Wood: In Search of the Wild Taste of Trees from Smoke and Sap to Root and Bark
By Artur Cisar-Erlach, reviewed by Michael A. Lange

The New Food Activism: Opposition, Cooperation, and Collective Action
Edited by Alison Hope Alkon and Julie Guthman, reviewed by Brendan O’Neill

Feeding the Other: Whiteness, Privilege, and Neoliberal Stigma in Food Pantries
By Rebecca de Souza, reviewed by Andrea Solazzo

Chop Suey Nation: The Surprising History and Vibrant Present of Small-Town Chinese Restaurants from Victoria, BC, to Fogo Island, NL
By Ann Hui, reviewed by Koby Song-Nichols

Fall 2019, Volume 19 Number 3

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FROM THE EDITOR
Editor’s Letter | Daniel Bender

PRESERVATIONS
The Race against Rot: Gastronomica’s New Editorial Team Weighs in on Saving Food | Anelyse M. Weiler, Sarah Elton, and Josée Johnston, eds

Preservation Pedagogy | Donna Gabaccia, with Nana Frimpong and Gillian MacCulloch

Food Savers or Food Saviors? Food Waste, Food Recovery Networks, and Food Justice | Leda Cooks

SURVIVALS
Survival in a Climate of Change: The Origins and Evolution of Nomadic Dairying in Mongolia | Paul S. Kindstedt and Tsetsgee Ser-Od

Sourcing and Saving Food in Siberian Kitchens | Sharon Hudgins

PRACTICES/TRADITIONS
Un-Modernist Cuisine | Helen Veit with Sean Sherman and Elizabeth Woody

Savoring Decay: Cheese, Heritage, and the Allure of Imminent Dissolution | Harry G. West

The Art of Saving Food: Preserving Gestures in Ymane Fakhirs Video Installation, Handmade (2011–12) | Sylvie Durmelat

SALVATIONS/WELL-BEING
The Gastronomical “She”: Narrating (Dis)Embodiment in M.F.K. Fisher’s Memoir | Victoria Burns

Saving Food, Saving Culture

Happy Treat: Food and Drink as Important Parts of Daily Life and Happiness | Ines Sučić, Tihana Brkljačić, Ljiljana Kaliterna Lipovčan, Renata Glavak-Tkalić, Lana Lučić

REVIEWS
French Gastronomy and the Magic of Americanism
By Rick Fantasia, reviewed by Sarah Cappeliez

Sugar and the Making of International Trade Law
By Michael Fakhri, reviewed by Ernesto Hernández-López

Food and Health in Early Modern Europe: Diet, Medicine and Society, 1450–1800
By David Gentilcore, reviewed by Ellen M. Ireland

Pressure Cooker: Why Home Cooking Won’t Solve Our Problems and What We Can Do about It
By Sarah Bowen, Joslyn Brenton, and Sinikka Elliott, reviewed by Josée Johnston

Feed the Resistance: Recipes + Ideas for Getting Involved
By Julia Turshen, reviewed by Jennifer O’Connor

Potato
By Rebecca Earle, reviewed by Amy Trubek

Keepers of the Future: La Coordinadora of El Salvador
By Avi Lewis, Director, reviewed by Anelyse M. Weiler