Winter 2017, Volume 17 Number 4


Winter 2017, Volume 17 Number 4

Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

Introduction: From Revolution to Globalization: Foodways in Russia and East-Central Europe | Mary Neuburger and Keith Livers

The Ethics and Politics of Diet: Tolstoy, Pilnyak, and the Modern Slaughterhouse | Ronald D. LeBlanc

From Fecal Briquettes to Candy Kremlins: The Edible Ideal in Sorokin’s
Prose | Keith Livers

Variations on a Shchi Theme: Collective Dining and Politics in the
Early USSR | François-Xavier Nérard

Dining in Utopia: A Taste of the Bulgarian Black Sea Coast under
Socialism | Mary Neuburger

Brewing Relations: Coffee, East Germany, and Laos | Andrew Kloiber

To Revive Delight: A Poet’s Restaurant Reviews in Early 1990s Prague |
Abigail Weil

Marketing Soviet Nostalgia: The Many Faces of Buratino | Laura Goering

Salo, the Ukrainian Pork Fat: Shrugs, Jokelore, and the “Six-Fingered” |
Katrina Kollegaeva

Emancipation and Domesticity: Decoding Personal Manuscript Cookbooks
from the Soviet Union | Anastasia Lakhtikova

Border Wines: Terroir across Contested Territory | Daniel Monterescu

The Ethnic Restaurateur
By Krishnendu Ray, Reviewed by Gary Alan Fine

Table Talk: Building Democracy One Meal at a Time
By Janet Flammang, Reviewed by Sam Chapple-Sokol

Food, Families and Work
By Rebecca O’Connell and Julia Brannen, Reviewed by
Andria D. Timmer

Black Labor, White Sugar: Caribbean Braceros and Their Struggle
for Power in the Cuban Sugar Industry
By Philip A. Howard, Reviewed by Marisa Wilson

Refrigeration Nation: A History of Ice, Appliances, and Enterprise in America
By Jonathan Rees, Reviewed by Cody Whetstone

Inventing the Pizzeria: A History of Pizza Making in Naples
By Antonio Mattozzi, Reviewed by Julian Linke


Editor’s Letter, Fall 2017

from Gastronomica 17:3

Lunches at my daughter’s school might include fried rice, dumplings, and noodles in addition to fruit, water, milk, and juice.
Photograph by Melissa L. Caldwell © 2017

As I write this editor’s letter at the beginning of June, I am in the home stretch of packing daily lunches for my daughter to take to school. As you read this in late August, I, like many parents, will already be back to the grind of trying to plan lunches that will both nourish my daughter and excite her enough that she actually eats what I pack. School lunches, as we all know, are a simultaneously fascinating and disturbing microcosm of the various power dynamics that exist among children, parents, schools, and other social observers and critics.

Most often, critical commentaries on school lunches have focused on the nutritional aspects of what children are eating: Are children eating “healthy” foods? Are they getting enough to eat? Are their meals prepared at home from fresh ingredients or in an institutional setting from mass-produced ingredients? A prevalent secondary concern has been whether children are knowledgeable about the foods they are eating: Do children know where their foods come from? Do they have personal experiences with planting, picking, or preparing the foods they eat? Collectively, such concerns with school lunches have pushed health to the top of the list as the most important aspect of children’s midday meal.

But what else might school lunches tell us?
Read more

Fall 2017, Volume 17 Number 3


Fall 2017, Volume 17 Number 3

Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

Global Engagement for Local and Indigenous Tastes: Culinary Globalization
in East Asia | Stephanie Assmann

Let Them Eat Royal Court Cuisine! Heritage Politics of Defining Global Hansik | Chi-Hoon Kim

Culinary Politics in Japan: The Shokuiku Campaign | Stephanie Assmann

The Cultural Politics of Food: Rice as an Anti-Globalization
Project | Ding-Tzann Lii

Kyoto Cuisine Gone Global | Greg de St. Maurice

Beyond Merroir: The Okinawan Taste for Clams | C. Anne Claus

The Transformation of Pig Feasts in Rural Northeast China |
Ann Veeck, Hongyan Yu, and Gregory Veeck

China’s Emerging Food Media: Promoting Culinary Heritage in the
Global Age | Lanlan Kuang

Historical Reflections on Culinary Globalization in East Asia | Eric C. Rath

Cooking for Democracy | Joseph Heathcott

Griswold No. 10. | Andrew Furman

Food Culture at the Margins of Consumption: Two New Books on Eating
Disorders | Emily J.H. Contois

Food Consumption in Global Perspective: Essays in the Anthropology of Food in
Honour of Jack Goody
Edited by Jakob A. Klein and Anne Murcott, Reviewed by Jesse Dart

Just Food: Philosophy, Justice and Food
Edited by J.M. Dieterle, Reviewed by Pascale Joassart-Marcelli

Empire of Tea: The Asian Leaf that Conquered the World
By Markman Ellis, Richard Coulton, and Matthew Mauger, Reviewed by
Lawrence Zhang

The Brewer’s Tale: A History of the World According to Beer
By William Bostwick, Reviwed by Aaron Ellis

Tasting French Terroir: The History of an Idea
By Thomas Parker, Reviewed by Cristina Adele Solazzo


Editor’s Letter, Summer 2017

from Gastronomica 17:2

Milk that comes straight from the source at a dairy farm near Manchester, England.
Photograph by Andrew G. Baker © 2015

Authenticity is one of those qualities that have proved especially vexing to those of us who are concerned with food matters. It is not simply the question of what makes something authentic, but also the question of what “authentic” means. Most often, what counts as “authentic” is imagined as an absolute state that can be quantified in some way, whether through aesthetic presentation, a specific combination of ingredients, sensory experiences, or the particular origin story attached to a dish or meal. Yet as Arjun Appadurai noted many years ago, authenticity is less an absolute state of existence than it is a relative category. More significantly, it is a relative category that is inherently and explicitly moral. As Appadurai wrote in his essay “On Culinary Authenticity”: “authenticity measures the degree to which something is more or less what it ought to be. It is thus a norm of some sort.” Appadurai then queried the nature of this norm: “But is it an immanent norm, emerging somehow from the cuisine itself? Or is it an external norm, reflecting some imposed gastronomic standard? If it is an immanent norm, who is its authoritative voice…? If it is an imposed norm, who is its privileged voice?” (Appadurai 1986: 25).

Read more

Summer 2017, Volume 17 Number 2


Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

The Price of Harmony: The Ideology of Japanese Cuisine | Scott Haas

PB&J: The Rise and Fall of an Iconic American Dish | Steve Estes

Free to Serve? Emergency Food and Volunteer Labor in the Urban U.S. | Maggie Dickinson

From Sensory Capacities to Sensible Skills: Experimenting with El Celler
de Can Roca | Ana María Ulloa, Josep Roca, and Hèloïse Vilaseca

Turning Passion into Profession: A History of Craft Beer in Italy |
Matteo Fastigi and Jillian R. Cavanaugh

Commensality, Politics, and Plato | Michael Jackson and Damian Grace

Lee Makes Rugelach | Misha Volf

The Wonder of Bread: Teaching University Students the Cost of Eating
with Their Hands | Eric Pallant

Innovative Directions in Philosophy of/through Food | Joey Tuminello

The Rewards of (Gluten) Intolerance | Bethany F. Econopouly
and Stephen S. Jones

Falafel Nation: Cuisine and the Making of National Identity in Israel
By Yael Raviv, Reviewed by Richard Klin

Pawpaw: In Search of America’s Forgotten Fruit

By Andrew Moore, Reviewed by Khristopher Flack

Thirsty Dragon: China’s Lust for Bordeaux and the Threat to the

World’s Best Wines
By Suzanne Mustacich, Reviewed by Jean DeBernardi

First Bite: How We Learn to Eat

By Bee Wilson, Reviewed by Lexi Earl

Divided Spirits: Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production

By Sarah Bowen, Reviewed by Lindi Masur