Winter 2021, Volume 21 Number 4

Editorial Letter | Daniel E. Bender and Signe Rousseau

IMMOBILITY AND FRICTIONS

Uncontrolled Movements: An Overview of Abdicated Control in Florida’s Prison Food Spaces | John Daimoku Kingham

Challenging Power, Fighting for Food: A Gastronomica Call for Submissions on Food and Activism | Josée Johnston, Koby Song-Nichols, and Michael Chrobok

Adirondack Mountain Oysters | Luke McNally

Why I Am Mad about the Ducks | Amy B. Trubek

ON THE MOVE

“Swiggy it!”: Food Delivery, Gastro Geographies, and the Shifting Meaning of the Local in Pandemic India | Tulasi Srinivas

Playing with Our Food | Cheryl Cheung

Classical Dishes, Taste, and Violence | Joel Rodrigues

ACROSS THE LINES

Sake Journal (Goshu no nikki): Japan’s Oldest Guide to Brewing | Eric C. Rath

Toward “Translating the Foods of the World”: A Gastronomica Call for Submissions | Eric C. Rath

An Education of the Senses at the University of California, Berkeley: Alice Waters from Then to Now | Cari Borja

50 Years On, Did Alice Waters Change Food Forever? | The Gastronomica Editorial Collective

Tipping the Scales | David Szanto

Ferment | Monica Rico

Sacrament | Monica Rico

Food Activism and Language in a Slow Food Italy Restaurant Menu | Carole Counihan

What to Read Now: An Interview with Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt, authors of Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water | Jaclyn Rohel

REVIEWS

Farmsteaders, a film by Shaena Mallett
reviewed by Alissa Boochever

The Uncertainty Mindset: Innovation Insights from the Frontiers of Food, by Vaughn Tan
reviewed by John Broadway

Tasting Difference: Food, Race, and Cultural Encounters in Early Modern Literature, by Gitanjali G. Shahani
reviewed by Sakshi Dogra

Right to Harm, a film by Matt Wechsler and Annie Speicher
reviewed by Allison Gray

Epistenology: Wine as Experience, by Nicola Perullo
reviewed by Anthony Palmiscno

Craft: An Argument, by Pete Brown
reviewed by Katie Schwind

FoodWISE: A Whole Systems Guide to Sustainable and Delicious Food Choices, by Gigi Berardi
reviewed by Sarra Talib

Podcast Dispatches from Issue 21.3: Aya H. Kimura

For our sixth season of podcasts produced in collaboration with Meant to Be Eaten on Heritage Radio Network, we sit down (virtually) with authors who have contributed to our third issue of 2021, edited by Krishnendu Ray, and featuring articles and creative pieces which collectively address the issue of “gastropolitics,” as described in that issue’s editorial letter.

In this episode Editorial Co-Chair Daniel Bender is joined by Associate Professor Kimura to discuss her recently published article, “Tsukemono (Japanese pickles) and Their Traditional Vegetables,” which offers a fascinating insight into the history and practices of Japanese pickles, as well as the effect of modern agriculture and chemical additives on a revered tradition of fermentation.

Suguki barrels at Kamigamo Shrine
(Image courtesy of Aya H. Kimura)

Podcast Dispatches from Issue 21.3: Benjamin Schrager

For our sixth season of podcasts produced in collaboration with Meant to Be Eaten on Heritage Radio Network, we sit down (virtually) with authors who have contributed to our third issue of 2021, edited by Krishnendu Ray, and featuring articles and creative pieces which collectively address the issue of “gastropolitics,” as described in that issue’s editorial letter.

In this episode, Editorial Collective member James Farrer is joined by the author of “Risky but Raw: On (Not) Regulating One of the Most High-Risk Dishes in Japan,” to discuss the ‘underlying social and ecological forces that shape situated expressions of risk’ in the context of increasingly popular raw chicken dishes in Japan.

Podcast Dispatches from Issue 21.3: Raúl Matta and Padma Panchapakesan

For our sixth season of podcasts produced in collaboration with Meant to Be Eaten on Heritage Radio Network, we sit down (virtually) with authors who have contributed to our third issue of 2021, edited by Krishnendu Ray, and featuring articles and creative pieces which collectively address the issue of “gastropolitics,” as described in that issue’s editorial letter.

In this inaugural episode, Editorial Collective member Josée Johnston is joined by the co-authors of “Deflated Michelin: An Exploration of the Changes in Values in the Culinary Profession and Industry” to discuss how ideas of “good taste” – ‘what good food should be, mean, and look like’ – have changed over time, and particularly how these are now less defined by “traditional” metrics such as the (once-revered) Michelin Guide. Focusing on the role of chefs, they unpack the sociology of tastemakers amidst the changing landscape of the restaurant industry.

Padma Panchapakesan
Raúl Matta

“Water Works”: A Call for Papers for a Special Issue

The Gastronomica Editorial Collective invites submissions for a special issue on water.

Essential to life, key to cooking, and making up more than 50% of the human body, water is fundamental yet often ignored, dismissed, wasted, even feared as a source of contamination. As people in many parts of the world have become accustomed to water-intensive agriculture and food production processes, others are struggling with water access. The United Nations estimates that more than 2 billion people worldwide lack access to safe water, a condition that is exacerbated by political conflict and environmental degradation, resulting in devastating consequences for food security and health.

With such a topic that defies categorization, our guidelines for submissions are perhaps more fluid than in a typical CFP. We want to see a flood of creative and scholarly pieces, translations, as well as artworks that explore a wide range of interdisciplinary interactions and intersections from sensory science to environmental studies, from food production to culinary history, from social justice to cultural and community perspectives. We ask authors to think broadly and deeply about topics addressing, for example:

  • water rights and Indigenous communities;
  • water and innovations in agriculture, brewing, winemaking, and other arenas of food and drink;
  • impacts of climate change on food production and coastal communities;
  • the changing specter of water;
  • water, food chains, and culinary infrastructure;
  • the promise and perils of aquaculture and aquaponics;
  • food and watersheds;
  • floating markets and distribution channels;
  • taste; access, inequity, and waste.

Research articles and critical translations (with introductions, reference lists, and notes) should be between 4000-8000 words. In addition, we invite creative Food Phenomena pieces that focus on water, including creative essays and visual works, such as photo essays (see art submission guidelines here). Both Scholarly and Food Phenomena pieces should be submitted via the journal’s ScholarOne platform, following our submission guidelines

Deadline for submissions for this special issue: 15 May 2022.

*Please note that we continue to invite all other forms of Scholarly and Food Phenomena submissions on a variety of topics for future issues.