Web Exclusives #7: “Not Quarantine Food”

*For our recently published special issue, “Food in the Time of COVID-19”, we received more submissions than we could accommodate in the print version of the issue, so the following article forms part of a series of submissions which will be published as Web Exclusives which speak to the theme of Gastronomica 20.3.

By Tisha Marie Reichle-Aguilera

May 13, 2020: Los Angeles, California

On April 1, I texted Becca a photo of roasted pasilla chiles stuffed with quinoa, carrot, onion, and Queso Oaxaca.

Figure 1: Stuffed pasilla. Photograph by Tisha Marie Reichle-Aguilera © 2020

“That doesn’t look like quarantine food!” she responded. Maybe she thought I was foolin’.

“Why not?” I texted back.

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Podcast: COVID-19 Dispatches #5

For the fifth episode of our podcast series, produced in collaboration with “Meant to be Eaten” on Heritage Radio Network and dedicated to dispatches from the food world in reaction to the first months of the pandemic (the focus of recently published 20.3 issue), our Managing Editor Jessica Carbone joins Daniel Bender to talk about her piece, “The Stockpile and the Letdown”, which documents her experience of having newly become a mother in the early days of the pandemic.

For 30% off single print-issues of “Food in the Time of COVID-19”, use promo code GASTROAUG2020 at checkout.

Web Exclusives #6: “The Same”

*For our recently published special issue, “Food in the Time of COVID-19”, we received more submissions than we could accommodate in the print version of the issue, so the following article forms part of a series of submissions which will be published as Web Exclusives which speak to the theme of Gastronomica 20.3.

By Tess Nissen

March 22, 2020: New York, New York

A smile and a wave from me,

A term of endearment from Diana,

A “Hey, how you doin’?” from Ali.

This is how you know you have arrived in East Village Organic (EVO).

Since March 12, things have been different in the store located on First Avenue between Seventh St. and St. Mark’s Place.

“How are you?” 

“How are you holding up?”

“This must be stressful for you…”

“Are you washing your hands?”

And before we were wearing them, “Why aren’t you wearing gloves? Or a mask? You should be wearing gloves or a mask?”

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Fall 2020, Volume 20 Number 3

Editorial Letter | Robert T. Valgenti

FROM THE KITCHEN
Recipe for Wild Dandelions | Sandra Trujillo

It’s Never Just about Food: Teaching Homeschool Food History from a Pandemic Pantry | Katherine Hysmith

Daylily Samosa | Kiyomi Seko

Distractibaking: A Note on the Psychology of Baking in Times of the COVID-19 Crisis | Sebastian Ocklenburg

The Aroma of the Old Kitchen | Laia Shamirian Pulido

Bad Virus, Good Microbes: The Global Domestication of Yeast Cultures and the COVID-19 Pandemic | Noa Berger and Daniel Monterescu

Eating the Plague | Ariana Gunderson

No Vegetarians in a Pandemic | Sarah E. Cramer

Festival in the Time of COVID-19 | Naa Oyo A. Kwate

FROM THE PASS
Anticipation | Mike Bacha

Face Mask for Food in the Time of COVID-19 | Carl Fleischhauer

The Sickness unto Hospitality | Stephen Meinster

Port in a Storm: Weathering the COVID-19 Crisis as a Restaurant Worker | Carlynn Crosby

Puerto Rico’s Neverending Crisis | Rafael N. Ruiz Mederos

Everything Will Be All Right | Giuseppe Ceccarelli

On the Other Side of the Curve: China’s Restaurateurs Face an Uphill Battle | James Farrer

Before It All Goes Away | Daryl Li

Community Health Research, Restaurants, and Adjusting amid Uncertainty | Melissa Fuster

Your Local Chinese Place Has a “Shelter-in-Place Dinner Special” | Dustin Wright

Weeded from Home | Emma Honcharski

FROM THE TABLE
The Stockpile and the Letdown | Jessica Carbone

The Enduring Hand of Italian Cuisine | Nicola Iafrate

So Far, Not Much Has Changed | Hannah Camp-Arthur

Making Rasam by the Eye during Uncertain Times | Smruthi Bala Kannan

Social Eating 2.0 | G. Solorzano, Emilia Cordero Oceguera, Heather McCarty Johnson and Sarah Bowen

Commensality in Crisis | Caitlin Morgan

What Will I Feed My Family Today? Food Decisions during COVID-19 on the US-Mexico Borderlands | Guillermina Gina Núñez-Mchiri

The Approaching Apocalypse | Krishnendu Ray

FROM THE COMMUNITY
Ration | Bharati Chaturvedi

A COVID-19 Relief Kitchen Created by an Unexpected Advocate | Ashley Rose Young

Food Insecurity and Bayanihan in the Locked-Down Philippines | Marvin Joseph F. Montefrio

A Privilege for All Times | Priti Narayan

Adapting Queer Foodways | Gabrielle Lenart

“Checking In with Your People”: Food, Mutual Aid, Black Feminism, and COVID-19 | Makshya Lenia Tolbert

Feeding Abandoned Animals in the Pandemic | Aditya Kiran Nag

Lockdown Destitution: Delhi, March 2020 | Saumya Gupta

“Normal” Lunch in a Pandemic: Shining a Spotlight on Chicago Public Schools’ Food | Aiko Kojima Hibino

The Impact of COVID-19 on Dutch Food Banks: A Call on Government to Guarantee the Right-to-Food | Jeroen Candel and Ingrid de Zwarte

Government Response to Support Local Farmers in the Face of COVID-19: A Case of South Korea | Seulgi Son

Is Life Only about a Virus? COVID-19 and Its Impact on Food Security | Lis Blanco

FROM THE MARKET
Buy an Orange | Emily Monaco

When Staples Vanished: Supermarket Panic-Buying during the COVID-19 Pandemic | Erin C. Kawazu and Fernando Ortiz-Moya

Dispatch from an Essential Worker | Danielle Jacques

A Middle-Class Neighborhood Survives a Pandemic | Shayani Raneesha Jayasinghe

Reclaiming Roots | Jessica Evans

Junk Food Solidarity | Ree Pashley

Here, with a Handbasket | Stephanie Jolly

Brotzeit: Dispatch from Munich | L. Sasha Gora

South Africa under Lockdown | Jacques Rousseau

I Miss the Grocery Store the Most | Amanda Blum

FROM OUR FOODWAYS
Labor and the Love of Asparagus | Sebile Yapici

In Quarantined France | Ciara McLaren

Uncertainty and Broken Foodways | Alejandro Dungla

Italian Farmers and Migrant Farmworkers: Food Activism and Food Justice in the Time of COVID-19 | Patrizia La Trecchia

Sociability, Farmers’ Markets, and COVID-19 | Amy B. Trubek

Migrants Bearing the Brunt of Lockdown | Dharmendra Kumar

On COVID-19: Food and/as Mutualism | Rachel Vaughn

Fighting COVID-19 with Anti-Corona Sandesh | Ishita Dey

Blue City | Josie Martin

REVIEWS
Good Apples: Behind Every Bite
by Susan Futrell, reviewed by Ning Dai

Food Justice and Narrative Ethics: Reading Stories for Ethical Awareness and Activism
by Beth A. Dixon, reviewed by Eric Himmelfarb

Grain by Grain: A Quest to Revive Ancient Wheat, Rural Jobs, and Healthy Food
by Bob Quinn and Liz Carlisle, reviewed by Carolyn Hricko

How the Shopping Cart Explains Global Consumerism
by Andrew Warnes, reviewed by Lisa Stowe

Messy Eating: Conversations on Animals as Food
edited by Samantha King, R. Scott Carey, Isabel Macquarrie, Victoria N. Millious, and Elaine M. Power, reviewed by Brody Trottier

Food Democracy: Critical Lessons in Food, Communication, Design and Art
edited by Oliver Vodeb, reviewed by Pamela Tudge

Web Exclusives #5: “The Day that We Closed Our English Public House”

*For our recently published special issue, “Food in the Time of COVID-19”, we received more submissions than we could accommodate in the print version of the issue, so the following article forms part of a series of submissions which will be published as Web Exclusives which speak to the theme of Gastronomica 20.3.

By Carina Mansey

March 21, 2020: Bedfordshire, England 

It was a Saturday morning, and, as per the usual, I was on route to the pub. After a sobering walk through the sleepy English market town, I reached the pub and entered via the backdoor. “Hello, team!” I said, waving frantically. My greeting was reciprocated and I took a seat. While Paul was attempting to make me a cuppa, I considered the abnormality of the situation.1 The last time front and back of house congregated like this was for the Christmas party, which had, due to the nature of our work, taken place in February. However, today found us in a very different situation. When we were settled, our manager addressed us, and then we began the deep clean.

While polishing table 3, I looked up at my coworkers. “What is Roger going to do for breakfast?” I asked. Something akin to “He will have to learn to cook” was Paul’s response. “I feel sad for him,” I mumbled. Roger came here every morning, other than on Christmas Day—the only day, up until now, that we closed. While scrubbing the remnants of something that I hoped was ketchup off table 9, I noticed Roger staring through our glass doors. My heart sunk as he read the notices tacked to them. Roger would not find anywhere offering a cooked breakfast because the Prime Minister had closed pubs and restaurants yesterday evening. I then thought of all our regular customers. They were not just my livelihood, they were people, and people I was going to miss. 

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