Winter 2018, Volume 18 Number 4


Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

Changing Tastes? The Evolution of Dining Out in England | Alan Warde

Food Is the New Jazz? Jack Kerouac and Food Writing | Bo McMillan

Maternal Food Memories in Lin Cheng-sheng’s 27°C: Loaf Rock and Eric Khoo’s Recipe: A Film on Dementia | Michelle E. Bloom

Productivism, Agroecology, and the Challenge of Feeding the World | Devon Sampson

Bottles of Art, Works of Alcohol | Jim Drobnick

A Tale of Two Cities: Differences in Wine Culture in Nice and London | Lacey Gibson

When the Kids Conquered the Kitchen: Danish Taste Education and the New Nordic Kitchen | Karen Wistoft and Lars Qvortrup

Still Life, With Lobster | Kelly Alexander

Food in Time and Place: The American Historical Association Companion to Food History
Edited by Paul Freedman, Joyce E. Chaplin, and Ken Albala, Reviewed by Todd C. Ream

Food across Borders
Edited by Matt Garcia, E. Melanie DuPuis, and Don Mitchell, Reviewed by Natalie Santizo

Personalities on the Plate: The Lives and Minds of Animals We Eat
By Barbara J. King, Reviewed by Amy Leigh Field

Eating to Learn, Learning to Eat: The Origins of School Lunch in the United States
By A. R. Ruis, Reviewed by Mark D’Alessandro

Making Modern Meals: How Americans Cook Today
By Amy B. Trubek, Reviewed by Lindi J. Masur

Sugar: The World Corrupted, from Slavery to Obesity
By James Walvin, Reviewed by Rien Fertel


Fall 2018, Volume 18 Number 3

Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

Re-Regulating Loncheras, Food Trucks, and their Clientele: Navigating Bureaucracy and Enforcement in New Orleans | Sarah Fouts

Wild Cuisine and Canadianness: Creeping Rootstalks and Subterranean Struggle | Natalie Doonan

Recipes as Culinary Communication in a Canadian Art Museum: Lobster Soufflé, Beef Stroganoff, and the Tensions of Gourmet Cooking in the 1960s | Irina D. Mihalache

Contending the Rural: Food Commodities and Regimes of Value in China | Sacha Cody

Australian Wine Labels: Terroir without Terror | Moya Costello, Robert Smith, and Leonie Lane

Dieting in the Long Sixties: Constructing the Identity of the Modern American Dieter | Nancy Gagliardi

Follow That Pig: Visually Charting Enhanced Learning in a Culinary School Butchery Class | Mark D’Alessandro

The Search for General Tso
Directed by Ian Cheney, Reviewed by Paul Durrenberger

Fasting and Feasting: The Life of Visionary Food Writer Patience Gray
By Adam Federman, Reviewed by Sarah Elton

Big Hunger: The Unholy Alliance between Corporate America and Anti-Hunger Groups
By Andrew Fisher, Reviewed by Stephanie Galinson

Candy: A Century of Panic and Pleasure
By Samira Kawash, Reviewed by Barbara Tagliaferro

The Cooking Gene: A Journey through African-American Culinary History in the Old South
By Michael W. Twitty, Reviewed by Beth Timmers

Harvest: Field Notes from a Far-Flung Pursuit of Real Food
By Max Watman, Reviewed by William Barton


Introducing Gastronomica’s Incoming Editorial Collective

University of California Press is pleased to announce Gastronomica‘s new editorial collective, which will be chaired by Daniel Bender (University of Toronto), Simone Cinotto (University of Gastronomic Sciences), and Amy Trubek (University of Vermont).

The Collective will assume editorial leadership of Gastronomica in January 2019, following the conclusion of Lissa Caldwell’s tenure.

Amy, Dan, and Simone are delighted to be working together on Gastronomica and are looking forward to the publication of their inaugural issue in May 2019 (Vol. 19, No. 2).

They say, “This is a terrific opportunity for Gastronomica. Our new editorial collective brings together scholars from across the world and voices from across this growing field. With such varied perspectives, we can help bring together the breadth and depth of scholarship in food studies and reach new academic, public, and activist audiences. We are excited to bring new features to the journal and some great special issues, including an inaugural issue highlighting “What’s Next?” in food studies. Our editorial collective is designed to reflect the social imperatives, public commitments, and scholarly depth of food studies. We are excited to bring together so many diverse voices in shaping the next chapter of the journal.”

UC Press extends its warm appreciation to Gastronomica‘s outgoing Editor-in-Chief, Melissa L. Caldwell (University of Santa Cruz) who has helmed the journal since 2012.

Caldwell says, “Gastronomica has always been ahead of its time both in featuring the most important conversations about food and in identifying emerging trends that challenged conventional wisdom and subsequently changed entire fields of study. It has been a privilege to serve as Editor and to have collaborated with food scholars, practitioners, activists, and enthusiasts from all over the world. I am deeply grateful to the many people who have contributed in so many ways to the journal—authors, reviewers, readers, critics, members of the editorial board, and of course my stellar behind-the-scenes editorial staff. I am thrilled that the journal will be in excellent hands and am looking forward to seeing where they take the journal and the field of critical food studies journeys next.”

Rachel Lee, Journals Manager at UC Press, says, “I’m enthused about the future of Gastronomica. As one of the Press’s flagship journals since its launch in 2001 under Darra Goldstein, this prestigious publication has long held an influential space in the field of food studies. As we approach Gastronomica’s second decade in publication, the deep experience of the editorial collective will provide essential direction to this maturing discipline.”

About The Editorial Collective

Screen Shot 2018-09-19 at 5.51.14 PMDaniel Bender is the founding director of the University of Toronto’s Culinaria Research Centre. The author or editor of five books, he is currently writing a book on food, empire, and tourism. He is a co-convenor of the international “City Food: Lessons from People on the Move” research collaboration.

Screen Shot 2018-09-19 at 5.51.31 PMSimone Cinotto is Associate Professor of Modern History at the Università di Scienze Gastronomiche in Pollenzo, Italy, where he is the Director of the master’s program “Master of Gastronomy: World Food Cultures and Mobility.” He is the author of The Italian American Table: Food, Family, and Community in New York City (University of Illinois Press, 2013) and Soft Soil Black Grapes: The Birth of Italian Winemaking in California (New York University Press, 2012); the editor of Making Italian America: Consumer Culture and the Production of Ethnic Identities (Fordham University Press, 2014), which won the 2015 John G. Cawelti Award for the Best Textbook/Primer of the Popular Culture Association/American Culture Association; and the coeditor, with Hasia Diner, of Global Jewish Foodways: A History (University of Nebraska Press, 2018). He is on the editorial board of Food, Culture, and Society and Global Food History among other journals and book series.

Screen Shot 2018-09-19 at 5.51.43 PMAmy Trubek is Professor in the Nutrition and Food Sciences department at the University of Vermont and Faculty Director for University of Vermont’s graduate program in Food Systems. She is the author of three books: Haute Cuisine: How the French Invented the Culinary Profession (University of Pennsylvania Press, 2000), The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir (University of California Press, 2008) and Making Modern Meals: How Americans Cook Today (University of California Press, 2017).

Summer 2018, Volume 18 Number 2

Summer 2018, Volume 18 Number 2

Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

Consumer Citizenship: Instant Noodles in India | Amita Baviskar

Advertising Indians | Neil Oatsvall

Transparency and the Factory Farm: Agritourism and Counter-Activism at Fair Oaks Farms | Jan Dutkiewicz

“You Can Never Give Up Siyez If You Taste It Once”: Local Taste, Global Markets, and the Conservation of Einkorn, an Ancient Wheat | Nurcan Atalan-Helicke

“Someone Else’s Land is Our Garden!”: Risky Labor in Taipei’s Indigenous Food Boom | Tomonori Sugimoto

Revisiting Coca-Cola’s “Accidental” Entry into Communist Europe | Albena Shkodrova

Fresh Green Peas | Rose Rappoport Moss

Food Sovereignty and Farmer Suicides: Synthesizing Political Ecologies of Health and Education in Karnataka, India | David Meek

Edible Memory: The Lure of Heirloom Tomatoes & Other Forgotten Foods
By Jennifer A. Jordan, Reviewed by Jessica Carbone

The Politics of the Pantry: Stories, Food, and Social Change
By Michael Mikulak, Reviewed by Ferne Edwards

Fast Food: The Good, the Bad and the Hungry
By Andrew F. Smith, Reviewed by Chin Jou

Ten Restaurants That Changed America
By Paul Freedman, Reviewed by Todd C. Ream

Butter: A Rich History
By Elaine Khosrova, Reviewed by Françoise R.L. Auvray

The Natural Art of Cheesemaking
By David Asher, Reviewed by Theodore Rend Barton


Reactive Taste | Richard Wilk

Spring 2018, Volume 18 Number 1

Spring 2018, Volume 18 Number 1

Editor’s Letter | Melissa L. Caldwell

Grocery Auction Games: Distribution and Value in the Industrialized Food System | Micah Marie Trapp

The Julia Child of Chinese Cooking, or the Fu Pei-mei of French Food? Comparative Contexts of Female Culinary Celebrity | Michelle T. King

Exploring the Christmas Eve Menu in Lawrence Durrell’s Avignon Quintet | Merrianne Timko

Anti-Intellectualism and Natural Food: The Shared Language of Industry and Activists in America since 1830 | Michael S. Kideckel

Rebelling Woman: Culinary Crime in Pedro Almodóvar’s ¿Qué he hecho yo para merecer esto!! | Rebeca Maseda

(Re)tasting places | Liselotte Hedegaard

The Offal Truth | Jake Young

Who Harvests Our Food? The Indigenous Roots of a Migrant Farmworker—The Story of Gervasio Peña Lopez | David Bacon

Chow Chop Suey: Food and the Chinese American Journey
By Anne Mendelson, Reviewed by E. N. Anderson

The Routledge History of Food
Edited by Carol Helstosky, Reviewed by Jacqueline Grady Smith

The Architecture of Taste
By Pierre Hermé, Reviewed by Ellen M. Ireland

Packaged Pleasures: How Technology and Marketing Revolutionized Desire
By Gary S. Cross and Robert N. Proctor, Reviewed by Zenia Malmer

Le sacre du roquefort: L’émergence d’une industrie agroalimentaire—Fin XVIII
By Sylvie Vabre, Reviewed by Rengenier C. Rittersma

Mincemeat: The Education of an Italian Chef
By Leonardo Luceralli, Reviewed by Younes Saramifar