Gastronomica

Editorial Letter | Lisa Haushofer

LOST PLACES
Lessons from a Kangaroo | Kelly Donati

From a Hailstorm: Vines, Wines, and Factories in the Alto Piemonte | Daniel E. Bender

Things Left Behind | Nancy Sommers

LOCAL FOODS
Gourmet and the Ghetto: The “Foodification” of Rome’s Historic Jewish Quarter | Sean Wyer

Ancient Greenwashing: On Food Justice and Civilizations in the Supermarket | Chelsea Fisher and Clara Albacete

Confronting Sustainability: An Ethnography of Sustainability on Elite British Chefs | Jed Hilton

DIVIDED SPHERES

What Rats Reveal about Cooking in Late Medieval Japan | Eric C. Rath

Not Just Any Drupe | Jo Podvin

Being Butter | Jo Podvin

REVIEWS
Early Jewish Cookbooks: Essays on Hungarian Jewish Gastronomical History by András Koerner, reviewed by Jonathan Brumberg-Kraus

Food Information, Communication and Education: Eating Knowledge, edited by Simona De Iulio and Susan Kovacs, reviewed by Lexi Earl

States of Subsistence: The Politics of Bread in Contemporary Jordan by José Ciro Martinez, reviewed by Katharina Graf

Anxious Eaters: Why We Fall for Fad Diets by Janet Chrzan and Kima Cargill, reviewed by Chad Lavin

Ingredients for Revolution: A History of American Feminist Restaurants, Cafes and Coffeehouses by Alex D. Ketchum, reviewed by Kristin Plys

Healing Grounds: Climate, Justice, and the Deep Roots of Regenerative Farming by Liz Carlisle, reviewed by Leslie Spencer

Editorial Letter | Jaclyn Rohel

URBAN TRANSFORMATIONS

New York Palimpsest: Berenice Abbott’s Depression-Era Foodscape | Rick Halpern

Resistances from a Stubborn Past: London’s Fading Eel, Pie, and Mash Shops | Stuart Freedman

Tea Art: Reconfiguring Ethics in Contemporary Urban China | Thiago Braga

Tasting the “Future of Food” on a Bay-Area Cellular Agriculture Tour | Sarah-Louise Ruder, Evan Bowness, Angela McIntyre, Atlanta Grant, and Lenore Newman

WORK & PLAY
Truita de pedres, a Catalan Recipe for Visualizing Women’s Domestic Work | Cristina Fernández Recasens

“She’s Afraid of Gaining Weight and Losing Her Husband”: Affective Political Ecology and the Sociality of Disordered Eating in Rural Appalachia | Annie Koempel

Cooking Up a Distinctly Singaporean Tamil Cuisine | Indira Arumugam

Breaking the Mold: How Jell-O Helped Women Get Creative in the Kitchen | Julia Segal

MARKET VALUES

Fertile Ground Food Cooperative: Building a Black-Led Grocery Store in a Southern City | Ajamu Amiri Dillahunt-Holloway

Nostalgia and the Protection of White Supremacy at a Public Farmers’ Market | Angela Babb, Megan Betz, Sang-hyoun Pahk, and Isis Smith

The Value of the Taiwanese Caishichang: A Photo Essay | Ellen Meiser

REVIEWS

The Delicacy, a film by Jason Wise, reviewed by Shingo Hamada

What a Mushroom Lives For: Matsutake and the Worlds They Make by Michael J. Hathaway, foreword by Anna Lowenhaupt Tsing, reviewed by Jakob Klein

Violent Appetites: Hunger in the Early Northeast by Carla Cevasco, reviewed by Dana Landress

Fermented Foods: The History and Science of a Microbiological Wonder by Christine Baumgarthuber, reviewed by Molly McConnell

Feasting and Fasting in Opera: From Renaissance Banquets to the Callas Diet by Pierpaolo Polzonetti, reviewed by Sadie Menicanin

A Short History of Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce by Massimo Montanari, translated by Gregory Conti, reviewed by Rosaria Moretti

Editorial Letter | James Farrer

PAIRINGS

Diptychs from Las Californias | Jess Stephens

AUTHENTICITIES

Theorizing Authenticity: Introduction to the Special Section | Lauren Crossland-Marr and Elizabeth L. Krause

Authentic Possibilities: Uncommon Lessons from Slow Figs and Fast Fashion | Elizabeth L. Krause

Authenticity and Its Perils: Who Is Left Out When Food Is “Authentic”? | Jillian R. Cavanaugh

Quality and Genuineness in the World of Sicilian Olive Oil | Amanda Hilton

Crafting Futures through Cheese-Making in Val Taleggio (Northern Italy) | Cristina Grasseni

TEMPORALITIES

Toward a Poetics of Chile . . . in Another Mexico | Victor Valle

Setting the Table for Friendship | Janita Van Dyk

Kitchen Bytes: The Retrofuturism of Kitchen Computers and Robots | Alex Ketchum

BORDERS

The Map and the Menu: Julia Child and Changing Definitions of the US Frontier | Blake Allmendinger

From Panocha to Fudge: Mexican Roots of an American Candy | Patrick Charbonneau and Jeffrey M. Pilcher

Recreating Colonial Mexican Fudge: Panochita in the Culinaria Kitchen Laboratory | Patrick Charbonneau, Kelsey Kilgore, and Jeffrey M. Pilcher

REVIEWS

Tainted Tap: Flint’s Journey from Crisis to Recovery by Katrinell M. Davis, reviewed by Alison Hope Alkon

Meat the Future , a flim by Liz Marshall, reviewed by Joel Dickau

Gastropolitics and the Specter of Race: Stories of Capital, Culture, and Coloniality in Peru by María Elena García, reviewed by Joseph P. Feldman

The Scarcity Slot: Excavating Histories of Food Security by Amanda Logan, reviewed by Joeva Sean Rock

Diners, Dudes, and Diets: How Gender and Power Collide in Food Media and Culture by Emily J. H. Contois, reviewed by Ana Tominc

Editorial Letter | Paula J. Johnson

CHANGES IN THE WATER

The Smell of Water: A Liquid Witness to Environmental Change in the Amazon | Chanelle Dupuis

Ceviche Revolution: Coastal Cholera, Marine Microplastics, and (Re)Fashioning Identities in Postcolonial Peruvian Gastropolitics | Rebecca Irons

Pirogues to Paradise? | Dawn Starin

The Uncertain Future of New Mexico Chile: Can a Heritage Crop Adapt to Water Scarcity? | Holly Brause

DRINKING WATER

Give Us Seltzer, That We May Drink: How Soda Water became a Jewish Icon | James Edward Malin

Seeing the Kanda River | James Farrer

Tasting Water at Canal Convergence 2021: An Experiment in Embodied Remembering | Christy Spackman, Marisa Manheim, and Shomit Barua

FIRST PERSON

“Don’t wait for me for lunch”: A Voyage and Memory Collage through a Family Food Archive | Camille Bégin

How the Work Gets Done | Margaret Ann Snow

Concerned about Climate? You Should be Eating Rabbit | Amy Finley

FOOD AND STORYTELLING

Mieux | Oliver Pagani

Fried Goose Eggs | Sandra Trujillo

REVIEWS

Caribeños at the Table: How Migration, Health, and Race Intersect in New York City, by Melissa Fuster
reviewed by Noah Allison

Front of the House, Back of the House: Race and Inequality in the Lives of Restaurant Workers, by Eli Revelle Yano Wilson
reviewed by Natasha Bunzl

Moveable Gardens: Itineraries and Sanctuaries of Memory, edited by Virginia D. Nazarea and Terese Gagnon
reviewed by Noha Fikry

Imperial Wine: How the British Empire Made Wine’s New World, by Jennifer Regan-Lefebvre
reviewed by Julia Fine

A Taste of My Life: A Memoir in Essays and Recipes, by Chitrita Banerji
reviewed by Kashyapi Ghosh

Brewing a Boycott: How a Grassroots Coalition Fought Coors and Remade American Consumer Activism, by Allyson P. Brantley
reviewed by Peter A. Kopp

Editorial Letter | Melissa Fuster

CONFLICTS AND TRANSFORMATIONS

The War in Ukraine and Food Security in Eastern Europe |
Eszter Krasznai Kovács, Agata Bachórz, Natasha Bunzl, Diana Mincyte, Fabio Parasecoli, Simone Piras, and Mihai Varga

Designing the Future of Polish Food: How Cosmopolitan Tastemakers Prototype a National Gastronomy | Mateusz Halawa and Fabio Parasecoli

Eating America | Joanne Jacobson

Tangled | Jaina Cipriano

UPROOTED AND TRANSFORMED

Across Time, Space, and Matter: A Panel Discussion on Food in the Hispanic World | H. Rosi Song, Rebecca Earle, Melissa Fuster, Lara Anderson, and Jordana Mendelson

Who Owns Bogurar Doi? An Ethnography of Placemaking and Craftsmanship in Bangladesh | Ishita Dey

Toast Hawaii | Sebastian Ocklenburg

Immigrant Birds: Serbian-Style Fried Chicken in the Magic City | Matthew Meduri

ADAPTING FOR OTHERS

The Language of Spoons | Kristin King Gilbert

The “Worst Dinner Guest Ever”: On “Gut Issues” and Epistemic Injustice at the Dinner Table | Megan A. Dean

When Knowledge Is Not Enough | Robert T. Valgenti

Doubtful Guests, Harassed Hosts, and the Golden Rule | Matthew Smith

Epistemic Exuberance at the Dinner Table: A Response to Megan A. Dean | Jacques Rousseau

Short Breaks Are for Hot Chocolate, Long Breaks Are for Salads,Weekends Are for Baking: On Being a Graduate Student during COVID-19 | Noha Fikry

REMEMBERING AND PRESERVING

Embodied Knowledge in a Family Photograph | Jay DiBiasio

Eva’s Bowl | Barb Webb

REVIEWS

Food in Cuba: The Pursuit of a Decent Meal, by Hanna Garth
reviewed by Olivia Barnett-Naghshineh

Food Insecurity on Campus: Action and Intervention, edited by Katharine M. Broton and Clare L. Cady
reviewed by Michael Classens

Planet Palm: How Palm Oil Ended Up in Everything—and Endangered the World by Jocelyn C. Zuckerman
reviewed by Jamie Cohen

Food for the Rest of Us, directed by Caroline Cox
reviewed by Ayana Curran-Howes

L’unique et le véritable: Réputation, origine et marchés alimentaires (vers 1680–vers 1830) by Philippe Meyzie
reviewed by Rengenier C. Rittersma

How the Other Half Eats: The Untold Story of Food and Inequality in America by Priya Fielding-Singh
reviewed by Tiana Bakić Hayden