Gastronomica--The Journal of Food and Culture (ISSN 1529-3262, USPS 022-015) is published quarterly by the University of California Press, 2000 Center St., Ste. 303, Berkeley, CA 94704. Periodicals Postage Paid at Berkeley, ca, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Gastronomica--The Journal of Food and Culture, University of California Press-Journals Division, 2000 Center St., Ste. 303, Berkeley, CA 94704-1223. SUBSCRIPTIONS: Subscriptions are $47 per year for individuals, $212 per year for institutions, $182 per year for institutions (electronic), $35 per year for students and retirees. Subscribers outside North America, add $20 for postage. Single issues are $13 for individuals, $58 for institutions. Domestic claims for nonreceipt of issues should be made within 90 days of the month of publication, overseas claims within 180 days. Subscription requests and requests for advertising rate cards should be sent to the University of California Press Journals Division, at the above address. E-mail: customerservice@ucpressjournals.com, Web site: www.ucpressjournals.com. Send manuscript inquiries to the Editor, Gastronomica-The Journal of Food and Culture, Williams College, Weston Hall, 995 Main Street, Williamstown, MA 01267. Unsolicited manuscripts should be accompanied by a stamped, self-addressed envelope. Copying and permissions notice: Authorization to copy article content beyond fair use (as specified in Sections 107 and 108 of the us Copyright Law) for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by the Regents of the University of California for libraries and other users, provided that they are registered with and pay the specified fee through the Copyright Clearance Center (CCC), www.copyright.com. To reach the CCC's Customer Service Department, dial 978-750-4470 or write to 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923. Articles appearing in Gastronomica--The Journal of Food and Culture are abstracted and indexed in the following databases: American Humanities Index; Articles in Hospitality and Tourism; Bibliography of the History of Art; International Directory of Little Magazines and Small Presses; ProQuest Library Periodicals; Social Sciences Abstracts; and Social Sciences Index. The paper used in this publication is elemental chlorine free and meets the minimum requirements of the American National Standard for Information Sciences-Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ansi Z39.48-1994.
© 2008 by the Regents of the University of California.

Editor in chief
Darra Goldstein, Williams College

Managing editor
Jane Canova, Williams College

Advisory Board
Warren Belasco, University of Maryland
Joseph Carlin, Food Heritage Press
Darrell Corti, Corti Brothers Grocers and Wine Merchants
Daphne Derven, Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture
Carol Field, Culinary Historian
Susan Tax Freeman, Anthropology, University of Illinois at Chicago
Joan Dye Gussow, Nutrition and Education, Teachers College, Columbia University
Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Food Writer and Culinary Historian
Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, Performance Studies, New York University
Rachel Laudan, Food Historian
Harvey Levenstein, History, McMaster University
Jan Longone, Clements Library, University of Michigan
Harold McGee, The Curious Cook
Sidney Mintz, Anthropology, Johns Hopkins University
Anne Murcott, Sociology of Health, South Bank University
Jill Norman, Publishing Consultant
Dana Polan, Cinema Studies, New York University
Joan Reardon, Culinary Historian
Phyllis Richman, The Washington Post
Deborah Rothschild, Williams College Museum of Art
Laura Shapiro, Historian and Food Writer
Jim Stark, Film Producer
Ardath Weaver, North Carolina Arts Council

Design Director
Frances Baca

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